Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
Trastevere is one of the city's most popular areas to wander, drink and decide what to
do afterwards. Foreign visitors love it, as do those who love foreign visitors, but it's
also a local haunt. The streets in summer are packed, with stalls, bars spilling into the
street, and a carnival atmosphere - it's even a bit overcrowded and won't be to every-
one's taste.
MA CHE SIETE VENUTI A FÀ
( Via Benedetta 25; 11am-2am; Piazza Trilussa)
This pint-sized pub - whose name, a football
chant, translates politely as 'What did you come here for?'- is a beer-buff's paradise, pack-
ing a huge number of on-tap craft beers or obscure bottled tipples into its tiny interior.
PUB
BAR SAN CALISTO
( 06 589 56 78; Piazza San Calisto 3-5; 6am-2am Mon-Sat; or Viale di Trastevere, )
Those in the
know head to the down-at-heel 'Sanca' for its basic, stuck-in-time atmosphere and cheap
prices. It attracts everyone from drug dealers, intellectuals and pseudo-intellectuals to
keeping-it-real Romans, alcoholics and American students. It's famous for its chocolate -
drunk hot with cream in winter, eaten as ice cream in summer. Try the
sambuca con la mo-
sca
('with a fly' - raw coffee beans).
CAFE
FRENI E FRIZIONI
( 06 5833 4210;
www.freniefrizioni.com
; Via del Politeama 4-6; 6.30pm-2am; Piazza Trilussa)
The
young dudes' favourite cool Trastevere bar, this was a garage in a former life, hence its
name ('brakes and clutches'). The arty crowd flocks here to slurp well-priced drinks (espe-
cially mojitos), feast on the good-value
aperitivo
(7pm to 10pm) and spill into the piazza.
BAR
OMBRE ROSSE
( 06 588 41 55; Piazza Sant'Egidio 12; 8am-2am Mon-Sat, 11am-2am Sun; Piazza Trilussa)
A seminal
Trastevere hang-out; grab a table on the terrace and watch the world go by amid a clientele
ranging from elderly Italian wide boys to wide-eyed tourists. A €0.50 beer costs €5. Tunes
are slinky and there's live music (jazz, blues, world) on Thursday evenings from September
to April.
BAR
