Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
years, and still the hungry come. With the TV on in the corner and the tables full (a few
outside on the cobbled street), Ivo is a noisy and vibrant place, and the waiters fit the
gruff-and-fast stereotype.
FORNO LA RENELLA€
BAKERY
( 06 581 72 65; Via del Moro 15-16; pizza slices from €2.50; 7am-2am Tue-Sat, to 10pm Sun & Mon;
Piazza Trilussa)
The wood-fired ovens at this historical Trastevere bakery have been going for
decades, producing a delicious daily batch of pizza, bread and biscuits. Piled-high top-
pings (and fillings) vary seasonally. It's popular with everyone from skinheads with big
dogs to elderly ladies with little dogs.
DA OLINDO€
( 06 581 88 35; Vicolo della Scala 8; meals €25; dinner Mon-Sat; Viale di Trastevere)
This is your
classic family affair; the menu is short, cuisine robust, portions are huge, and the atmo-
sphere is lively. Expect
baccalà con patate
on Fridays and gnocchi on Thursdays, but oth-
er dishes - such as
coniglio all cacciatore
(rabbit, hunter-style) or
polpette al sugo
(meat-
balls in sauce) - whichever day you like.
TRATTORIA
SISINI€
PIZZERIA
( Via San Francesco a Ripa 137; pizza & pasta from €2, supplì €1.10; 9am-10.30pm Mon-Sat, closed Aug; or
Viale di Trastevere)
Locals love this fast-food takeaway joint (the sign outside says 'Sup-
plì'), serving up fresh
pizza al taglio
(pizza by the slice) and different pasta and risotto
dishes served in plastic boxes. It's also worth sampling the
supplì
and roast chicken.
BIR & FUD€
( Via Benedetta 23; meals €25; 7.30pm-midnight, to 2am Fri & Sat; or Viale di Trastevere)
This
orange-and-terracotta, vaulted pizzeria wins plaudits for its organic take on pizzas,
crostini
and fried things (potato, pumpkin etc) and has a microbrewery on site, so serves
seasonable tipples such as Birrificio Troll Palanfrina (winter only, made from chestnuts).
PIZZERIA
VALZANI€
PASTRIES & CAKES
(
06 580 37 92; Via del Moro 37; cakes €3;
3-8pm Mon & Tue, 10am-8pm Wed-Sun, closed Jul & Aug;
or
Piazza Sonnino)
The speciality of this glorious, stuck-in-time cake shop, opened in 1925
