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it's not all show and the food is excellent with tasty salads, seafood antipasti and top-
drawer pastas.
PIPERNO$$$
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TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
( 06 6880 6629; www.ristorantepiperno.it ; Via Monte de' Cenci 9; meals €50-55; closed Mon & Sun dinner;
Via Arenula) This historic restaurant is tucked away in a quiet corner of the Jewish
Ghetto. It's formal without being stuffy, a wood-panelled restaurant of the old school,
where white-clad waiters serve wonderful deep-fried filetti di baccalà (cod fillets) and
tagliolini alla pescatora (long ribbon pasta with seafood). To finish, try the delicious palle
del Nonno ('grandpa's balls' or ricotta and chocolate puffs). Booking recommended.
Isola Tiberina
SORA LELLA$$$
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TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
( 06 686 16 01; www.soralella.com ; Via Ponte Quattro Capi 16; meals €60; daily; Lungotevere dei Cenci)
This long-standing family-run restaurant enjoys a memorable setting in a tower on the
Tiber's tiny island. Named after a much-loved Roman actress (the owner's mother), it
serves a classic Roman menu spiced up with some wonderful fish dishes - try the
tagliolini alla maniera der capitano pescatore (spaghetti-like pasta with clams, mussels,
squid, shrimp and tomatoes).
Piazza Colonna & Around
PIZZERIA AL LEONCINO $
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PIZZERIA
( 06 686 77 57; Via del Leoncino 28; pizzas from €6; closed Wed & lunch Sat & Sun; Via del Corso)
Some places just never change and this boisterous neighbourhood pizzeria is one of them.
A bastion of budget eating in an otherwise expensive area, it has a wood-fired oven, two
small rooms and gruff waiters who efficiently serve bruschettas, excellent Roman-style
pizza and ice-cold beer. Cash only.
MATRICIANELLA$$
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TRATTORIA
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