Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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( 06 687 86 37; Via del Portico d'Ottavia 1; 8am-7.30pm Sun-Thu, to 3.30pm Fri; Via Arenula) This
tiny, unsigned Jewish bakery is where the locals come to buy their special occasion dolci
(cakes and pastries). The burnished cakes are bursting with fruit and sultanas, and special-
ities include ricotta cake with chocolate flakes and cherries, and mostacciolo romano (a
kind of sweet biscuit) - all served by authentically grumpy, elderly ladies.
ALBERTO PICA$
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( Via della Seggiola; cones/tubs from €1.50; 8.30am-2am; Via Arenula) It looks nothing special but
this old-fashioned bar is famous for its ice cream. In summer, it offers flavours such as
fragoline di bosco (wild strawberry) and petali di rosa (rose petal), but rice flavours are
specialities year-round (resembling frozen rice pudding).
GELATO
SORA MARGHERITA$$
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TRATTORIA
( 06 687 42 16; Piazza delle Cinque Scole 30; meals €30-35; closed dinner Tue & Thu, all day Sun; Via
Arenula) No-frills Sora Margherita started as a cheap kitchen for hungry locals, but word
has spread and it's now a popular lunchtime haunt of everyone from local workers to
slumming uptowners. Expect dog-eat-dog queues, a rowdy Roman atmosphere and classic
Roman dishes such as gnocchi al sugo (gnocchi in tomato sauce) and fegato (liver). Ser-
vice is prompt and you're expected to be likewise.
LA TAVERNA DEGLI AMICI$$$
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( 06 6992 0637; Piazza Margana 37; meals €50; closed Sun dinner & Mon; Piazza Venezia) A smart
trattoria in a delightful medieval setting, the Taverna sits on a pretty ivy-draped piazza on
the edge of the Jewish Ghetto. It serves consistent classics such as saltimbocca alla ro-
mana ('leap in the mouth' veal with sage), plus delicious seafood and homemade desserts.
There's also an excellent wine list.
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
VECCHIA ROMA$$$
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TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
( 06 686 46 04; www.ristorantevecchiaroma.com ; Piazza Campitelli 18; meals €60; Thu-Tue, closed 3 weeks
Aug; Via del Teatro di Marcello) This old-fashioned restaurant is the very picture of formal el-
egance with chandeliers, gilt-framed oil paintings and impeccably groomed, white-jack-
eted waiters. Outside , a candlelit terrace looks onto a picture book cobbled piazza. But
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