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ample menu of Gallic-inspired cold cuts, pâtés, cheeses and main courses. Book ahead in
the evening.
CAMPANA$$
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TRATTORIA
( 06 687 52 73; www.ristorantelacampana.com ; Vicolo della Campana 18; meals €35-40; Tue-Sun; Via di
Monte Brianzo) Caravaggio, Goethe and Federico Fellini are among the luminaries who have
dined at what is said to be Rome's oldest trattoria, dating back to around 1518. Nowadays,
locals crowd its two dining rooms to dine on fresh fish and traditional Roman cuisine in a
cheerful, pleasantly hectic atmosphere.
DA FRANCESCO$$
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( 06 686 40 09; Piazza del Fico 29; pizzas from €6, meals €35; daily; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) The
queues outside give the game away. This is a quintessential Roman pizzeria-cum-trattoria
with a small bustling interior and a few tables spilling out onto a pretty piazza. The wood-
fired pizzas are thin-crust Roman style or there's a menu of pastas and classic meat dishes.
No credit cards.
TRATTORIA, PIZZERIA
LILLI$$
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TRATTORIA
( 06 686 19 16; www.trattorialilli.it ; Via Tor di Nona 23; meals €25-30; closed Sun dinner & Mon; Corso
del Rinascimento) Eat like a local at this authentic neighbourhood trattoria on a cobbled cul-
de-sac five minutes' walk from Piazza Navona. Few tourists make it here but it still gets
busy as l ocal diners dig into honest casareccia -style (homestyle) cooking.
LA FOCACCIA$$
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PIZZERIA, TRATTORIA
( 06 6880 3312; Via del Pace 11; pizzas from €7, meals €30; 11pm-12.30am; Corso del Rinascimento)
Hotfoot it to one of the few outside tables at this unsigned pizzeria, facing the Chiostro del
Bramante, or settle for a place in the surprisingly large interior. Kick off with a supplì
(fried rice croquette) or antipasto of fried zucchini before launching into the main event,
Neapolitan-style wood-fired pizza.
CASA BLEVE$$$
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WINE BAR, GASTRONOMIC
( 06 686 59 70; www.casableve.it ; Via del Teatro Valle 48-49; meals €65; Tue-Sat, closed Aug; Largo di
Torre Argentina) Ideal for a romantic assignation, this stately wine-bar-cum-restaurant dazzles
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