Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ORKNEY EXPLORER PASS
The
Orkney Explorer Pass
covers all Historic Scotland sites in Orkney, including big ticket items such as Maes
Howe, Skara Brae, the Broch of Gurness, the Brough of Birsay and the Bishop's Palace and Earl's Palace in Kirk-
wall; it costs £17/10 per adult/child.
MAES HOWE
Egypt has pyramids, Scotland has
Maes Howe
(HS; 01856-761606;
www.historic-
scotland.gov.uk
;
adult/child £5.50/3.30; tours hourly 10am-4pm)
. Constructed about
5000 years ago, it's an extraordinary place, a stone-age tomb built from enormous sand-
stone blocks, some of which weighed many tons and were brought from several miles
away. Creeping down the long stone passageway to the central chamber, you feel the in-
describable gulf of years that separate us from the architects of this mysterious place.
Though nothing is known about who and what was interred here, the scope of the project
suggests it was a structure of great significance.
In the 12th century, the tomb was broken into by Vikings searching for treasure. A
couple of years later, another group sought shelter in the chamber from a blizzard that las-
ted three days. While they waited out the storm, they carved runic graffiti on the walls. As
well as the some-things-never-change 'Olaf was 'ere' and 'Thorni bedded Helga', there
are also more intricate carvings, including a particularly fine dragon and a knotted serpent.
Buy tickets in Tormiston Mill, on the other side of the road. Entry is by 45-minute
guided tours that leave on the hour. Make sure to reserve your tour-slot ahead by phone.
Due to the oversized groups, guides tend to only show a couple of the Viking inscriptions,
but they'll happily show more if asked.
ORKNEYINGA SAGA
Written around 1200, this saga is a rich tale of sorcery, political intrigue, and cunning and unscrupulous acts
among the Viking earls of Orkney. Part myth and part historical fact, it begins with the capture of the islands by
the king of Norway and then recounts the next tumultuous centuries until they become part of Scotland. It's a
wonderful piece of medieval literature and well worth a read. Head to the
Orkneyinga Saga Centre
(admission
free;
9am-6pm late May-late Oct)
in the south coast village of Orphir for more background.
