Laos - Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Northern Thailand - page 679

is enlivened with sound effects and accompanying music: the Hendrix-esque soundtrack
to the Air America piece is particularly memorable and you may find yourself ducking for
cover when the jet fighters screech overhead.
Most caves have minor elements of original furnishings. Some have 'emergency rooms'
- air-locked concrete caves-within-caves designed to protect top politburo members from
possible chemical or gas attacks (the Kaysone Phomvihane Cave still has its air-circulation
pump in working order). Almost all the main cave sites are well illuminated but bring a
torch (flashlight) if you want to traverse the unadorned hospital cave (occasionally
flooded).
Steps lead down from the hand-dug Khamtay Siphandone Cave to the Barracks Caves , ex-
tensive natural caverns that would have housed hundreds of conscripted liberation sol-
diers. Above is the Artillery Cave from whose open ledge spotters would watch for incom-
ing American planes. The tour culminates in the Xanglot Cave , a wide double-ended cavern
that was used as a wedding hall, cinema and even as a theatre. Incredibly, performers from
Russia, China and Vietnam all managed to mount productions here during the war.
Tours start at 9am and 1pm from the caves office. By arrangement private visits are also
possible at other times (costing an extra 50,000K per group), depending on guide availab-
ility. Seeing all 18 sites in the three hours available is possible without feeling unduly
rushed, assuming you rent a bicycle (available for 10,000/20,000K per tour/day from the
caves office) and that you listen to the longer audio tracks while travelling between the
sites rather than waiting to arrive before pressing play.

Sleeping & Eating

Naxay Guesthouse
( 064-314330; r 60,000-80,000K) Opposite the caves office, Vieng Xai's most comfortable
option offers bamboo-lined bungalows or concrete cubicles set around a patch of greenery
backed by an impressive split-toothed crag. Beds are comfy, hot water flows and the at-
tached beach-style cafe pavilion occasionally serves up food.

GUESTHOUSE $

Information

Vieng Xai Cave Tourist Office ( 064-314321; www.visit-viengxay.com ; 8-11.30am & 1-4.30pm)
Around 1km south of the market, the caves office organises all cave visits, rents bicycles
and has maps, a small book exchange and a useful information board.