Laos - Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Northern Thailand - page 678

(130,000K, 12 hours, 8am) and continues to Luang Prabang (140,000K, 17 hours) and
Vang Vieng. If you're heading for Udomxai, take this bus and change at Pak Mong.
Nathong bus station is 1km to the east heading for Vieng Xai. Sŏrngtăaou run from
here to Vieng Xai (15,000K, 50 minutes, 29km) at 8am, 10am, 11am, 2.30pm and 4pm;
the scenery is among the most stunning in Laos. The 'Nameo' (actually the Nam Xoi bor-
der post) bus leaves at 8am (30,000K, three hours), and Sam Tai (Xamtay) at 9.30am
(50,000K, five hours).

Vieng Xai

064 / POP 10,000
Set amid valleys patterned with rice paddies and towered over by dramatic karsts, beauti-
ful Vieng Xai seems an unlikely place to have suffered a decade's worth of American air
assaults. Its 450 limestone caves provided sanctuary for more than 23,000 people during
the Secret War, playing host to bakeries, a hospital, school, a metalwork factory and, more
importantly, the political headquarters of the communist Pathet Lao party. As the bombs
fell near the virtually unassailable caves, President Kaysone Phomvihane plotted the
transformation of his country in a dank grotto, undecorated but for a framed photo of Che
Guevara and a few other keepsakes.
About 5km before Vieng Xai keep an eye out for Tham Nok Ann (Nok Ann Cave; admission
10,000K, twin kayak 30,000K; 8am-5pm) , a newly opened cave complex you can kayak

through.

Sights & Activities

Vieng Xai Caves
( www.visit-viengxay.com ; admission incl audio tour 60,000K) Joining a truly fascinating 18-point
tour is the only way to see Vieng Xai's seven most important war-shelter cave complexes,
along with several 1970s postwar buildings associated with major liberation heroes. All
are set in beautiful yet very natural gardens and backed by fabulous karst scenery. A local
guide unlocks each site and can answer basic questions. Meanwhile, an audioguide gives a
wealth of first-hand background information and historical context, offering a moving,
balanced and uniquely fascinating glimpse of how people struggled on through the war
years. The excellent production incorporates original interviews from local survivors and

CAVE