Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
duce from downstairs; the osso bucco, ragu gnocchi and antipasto platters are show stealers. Expect lengthy
queues, especially on weekends; it doesn't take bookings.
A 10-minute walk further into Waterloo will lead you to the off-the-beaten-track
Darren Knight Gallery
(
which showcases established and up-and-coming artists from Australia and New Zealand - including Ricky
Swallow, whose work hangs in New York's MoMA and the National Gallery of Australia. From Danks St, head
south on Young St, turn right onto Powell, then left onto Elizabeth.
Darlinghurst
UNIVERSAL$$
( 9331 0709;
www.universalrestaurant.com
;
courtyard, 248 Palmer St; dishes $27-31; lunch Fri, dinner Mon-
Sat; Museum)
Simple decor and dramatic lighting set the scene for food which is certainly
dramatic but anything but simple. Celebrity chef Christine Manfield's latest venture tours
the cuisines of the known universe and creates something out of this world. Dishes are de-
signed to be shared; three per head is recommended but we found two plus dessert ample.
The smutty-sounding cocktails shouldn't be missed.
FUSION
DUKE$$
( 9332 3180;
www.dukebistro.com.au
; level 1, 63 Flinders St; dishes $10-26; dinner Tue-Sat; 373, 377)
Head upstairs from the dingily atmospheric Flinders pub to this restaurant where the ec-
centricity starts with the decor (forest-green walls, floral couches, boar's head), continues
with the service (flirtacious, funny, efficient) and peaks with the food (shared plates of
meaty food at its most adventurous). The menu's minimal descriptions help to lure boring
eaters out of their comfort zones.
MODERN AUSTRALIAN
A TAVOLA$$
Cross)
At this classy pasta joint, the menu only has a handful of dishes to choose from, but
you can be confident that they will all be fantastic. Don't be afraid to bump elbows with
ITALIAN
