Eating - Venice and the Veneto - page 79

other. When that's done, snap the menu shut and say, ' Allora, facciamo cosi, per favore!'
(Well then, let's do that, please!) You have just won over your server, and flattered the
chef - promising omens for a memorable meal to come.
Drink well. Bottled water is entirely optional; acqua del rubinetto (tap water) is per-
fectly potable and highly recommended as an environment-saving measure. But fine
meals call for wine, often available by the glass or half-bottle. Never mind that you don't
recognise the label: the best small-production local wineries don't advertise or export
(even to other parts of Italy), because their yield is snapped up by Venetian osterie and
enoteche .
Try primi without condiments. Your server's relief and delight will be obvious. Vene-
tian seafood risotto and pasta are rich and flavourful enough without being smothered in
Parmesan or hot sauce.
Enjoy lagoon seafood. No one expects you to order an appetiser or secondo , but if you
do, the tests of any Venetian chef are seasonal seafood antipasti and frittura (seafood fry).
Try yours senza limone (without lemon) first: Venetians believe the delicate flavours of la-
goon seafood are best complemented by salt, pepper and subtle trade-route spices like star
anise. Instead, try washing down seafood with citrusy Veneto white wines that highlight
instead of overwhelm subtle briny flavours.
Gourmet Hot Spots
Bad advice has circulated for decades about how it's impossible to eat well and economic-
ally in Venice, which has misinformed day-trippers clinging defensively to congealed, re-
heated pizza slices in San Marco. Little do they realise that for the same price a bridge
away, they could be dining on crostini topped with scampi and grilled baby artichoke, or
tuna tartare with wild strawberries and balsamic reduction. Luckily for you, there's still
room at the bar to score the best cicheti and reservations are almost always available at
phenomenal eateries - especially at dinner, after the day-trippers depart.
To find the best Venetian food, dodge restaurants immediately around San Marco, near
the train station and along main thoroughfares. If you haven't made reservations, try res-
taurants along these gourmet trails in hidden campi and backstreets:
Cannaregio Along Fondamenta Savorgnan, Fondamenta della Sensa and Calle Larga
Doge Priulli.
San Polo & Santa Croce Around the Rialto Market, Campo San Polo, Campo San Gi-
acomo dell'Orio and Calle Larga dei Bari.
Castello Around Campo Bandiera e Moro, Zanipolo and Via Garibaldi.
San Marco Along Calle delle Botteghe, Calle Spezier and Frezzeria.