Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
saintly spritz , and the occasional live concert (Irish groups and all-girl rock bands are per-
ennial favourites).
AGLI ORMESINI
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PUB
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(Da Aldo; 041 71 58 34; Fondamenta degli Ormesini 2710; 8pm-1am Mon-Sat; Madonna dell'Orto)
While the rest of Venice is awash in wine, Ormesini offers more than 100 brews, includ-
ing reasonably priced bottles of speciality craft ales and local Birra Venezia. The cheery,
beery scene often spills into the street - but keep it down, or the neighbours will get testy.
OSTERIA AI OSTI
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( 041 520 79 93; Corte dei Pali della Testori 3849; 9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; Ca' d'Oro) Behind the old
well and between a kebab joint and an Irish pub is this authentic ombra outpost, where
Venetians stop in throughout the day for friendly glasses of wine at friendly prices. Tasty
Friuli whites with a good selection of sopressa (Venetian soft salami) and cicheti easily
pass as lunch or a light dinner.
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UN MONDO DI VINO
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( 041 521 10 93; Salizada San Canciano 5984a; 11am-3pm & 5.30-11pm Tue-Sun; Rialto) Get there
early for first crack at marinated artichokes and sarde in saor (sardines in tangy onion
marinade) and claim a few square inches of ledge for your plate and wineglass. There are
45 wines offered by the glass here, with prices ranging from €1.50 to €5, so take a chance
on a freak blend or obscure varietal.
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LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
FURTHER ADVENTURES IN WINE
Prosecco , soave and Amarone aren't the only wines in town, especially in Cannaregio bars. Expand your happy-
hour options with an immersion experience in Veneto wines led by an English-speaking professional sommelier
from Venetian Vine ( www.venetianvine.com ; tastings per person €70 for up to six people). Tasting sessions are
usually held at La Cantina ( Click here ) and cover two flights with cicheti pairings over two hours - though parti-
cipants have been known to keep toasting after class is dismissed.
CANTINA VECIA CARBONERA
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BAR
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