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(toast) loaded with tuna-leek salad. A gourmet bargain for inspired bites and DOC/IGT
wine pairings - try floral Ribolla Gialla or sophisticated Valpolicella.
SACRO E PROFANO €
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ITALIAN
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( 041 523 79 24; Ramo Terzo del Parangon 502, San Polo; meals €15-25; 11.30am-1pm & 6.30pm-1am Mon-
Tue & Thu-Sat, 11.30am-2pm Sun; Rialto-Mercato)
Musicians, artists and philosophising regulars
make this hideaway under the Rialto exceptionally good for eavesdropping - but once that
handmade gnocchi or spaghetti
alla búsara
(Venetian prawn sauce) arrives, all talk is re-
duced to satisfied murmurs. The place is run by a Venetian ska-band leader, which ex-
plains the trumpets on the wall and the upbeat, arty scene.
SNACK BAR AI NOMBOLI €
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PANINI
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( 041 523 09 95; Rio Terà dei Nomboli 271c, San Polo; sandwiches €2-6; 9am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; San
Tomà)
A snappy Venetian comeback to McDonald's: crusty rolls packed with local cheeses,
fresh greens, roast vegetables, salami, prosciutto and roast beef, served at an antique
marble lunch counter. Beyond standard mayo, condiments range from spicy mustard to
wild nettle sauce. Two panini make a filling, tasty lunch for €4 to €5; three is a feast de-
serving of a glass of Brunello.
PASTICCERIA RIZZARDINI €
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PASTRIES & CAKES
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( 041 522 38 35; Campiello dei Meloni 1415, San Polo; pastries €1-3.50; 7.30am-8pm Wed-Mon; San Sil-
vestro)
'From 1742' boasts this corner bakery, whose reputation for
krapfen
(cream puffs),
strudel and doughnuts has survived many an
acqua alta
- waters bailed from the store are
preserved in bottles above the bar. Stop by any time for reliable espresso,
spritz
and
pal-
lone di Casanova
(Casanova's balls) biscuits - but act fast if you want that last slice of
tiramisu.
TEAROOM CAFFÈ ORIENTALE €
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VEGETARIAN, PASTRIES & CAKES
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( 041 520 17 89; Rio Marin 888, Santa Croce; meals €6-12; noon-9pm Fri-Wed; ; Riva de Biasio)
Detour from tourist-trail espresso bars and seafood restaurants to this art-filled canalside
tearoom, which offers vegetarian delights ranging from asparagus-studded quiches to
hearty bean soups. Baked goods are made in-house with extra-fluffy, high-protein Italian
