Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
'00' flour, so after that whisper-light apple crumble, you'll be raring to tackle the mu-
seums.
FRITTO E FRUTTA €
MAP
SNACKS, JUICE BAR
GOOGLE MAP
( 041 524 68 52; Fondamenta dei Tolentini 220, Santa Croce; noon-10pm Mon-Sat; ; Piazzale
Roma)
Venice offers indulgence and redemption at Fritto e Frutta, a juice bar with an in-
frared deep fryer. Strict vegans, picky kids, commuters and barflies converge at this
counter for Venice's lightest
fritture -
flash-fried bites of fresh seafood and/or vegetables
- and smoothies custom-frothed into liquid meals.
Fritture
are served in paper cones ran-
ging from dainty to family size (€3.50 to €6).
OSTERIA MOCENIGO €
MAP
VENETIAN
GOOGLE MAP
(
041 523 17 03; Salizada San Stae 1919, Santa Croce; meals €15-25;
noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sun;
;
San Stae)
Times and dining habits have changed since dogi strained waistcoat buttons at
neighbouring Palazzo Mocenigo: Osteria Mocenigo offers light meals of
cicheti
at the bar
(including upstanding
sarde in saor
), casual lunches of homemade ravioli with radicchio
and whitefish and grilled meats for dinner. A single dish here makes a satisfying meal
with Veneto wine by the glass.
ANTICA BIRRARIA DELLA CORTE €
MAP
PIZZERIA
GOOGLE MAP
( 041 275 05 70; Campo San Polo 2168, San Polo; pizzas €8-13; noon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm Mon-Fri;
; San Tomà)
This former bullfight pen became a brewery in the 19th century to keep
Venice's Austrian occupiers occupied, and beer and heritage beef remain reliable bets
here. Perennial favourites include
bresaola
and rocket and buffalo-mozzarella pizzas, with
German beer on tap or Italian artisan bottled brews. There's seldom a wait for indoor seat-
ing, though piazza seating is prime in summer.
LA RIVETTA €
MAP
CICHETI
GOOGLE MAP
( 041 71 84 98; Calle Sechera 637a, Santa Croce; cicheti €1-3.50; 9am-9.30pm Mon-Sat; Ferrovia)
Cabernet Franc comes out of a hose and platters of hearty fare are passed around at this
bacaro
(hole-in-the-wall bar), a favourite of salty sailors and neighbourhood eccentrics.
Go for mixed plates with salami,
carciofini
(marinated artichokes) and
porchetta
(roast
