Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 041 523 78 55; Frezzaria 1535; meals €20-25; 10am-9pm Mon-Sat; Vallaresso)
For the price of
hot chocolate in Piazza San Marco, diners in the know duck into this hidden courtyard to
feast on handmade ravioli with poppyseed, pear and sheep's cheese. Expect a wait at
lunch and happy hour, when
gondolieri
abandon ship for DOC soave and
sopressa
crostini
(soft salami on toast).
CAFFÈ MANDOLA €
( 041 523 76 24; Calle della Mandola 3630; panini €3-7; 9am-7pm Mon-Sat; Sant'Angelo)
Carbo-load
before the opera or between museums with fresh focaccia loaded with tangy tuna and
capers or lean
bresaola,
rocket and seasoned Grana Padano cheese. On cold days, get your
porchetta
(pork) and gorgonzola cheese panini toasted to gooey perfection. Plan your
breaks before 1pm or after 3pm to snag a stool indoors (no extra charge).
PANINI
ROSA SALVA €
MAP
BAKERY
GOOGLE MAP
( 041 522 79 34;
www.rosasalva.it
;
Mercerie 5020; pastries €1.10-2.80; 7.30am-8pm Thu-Tue; ;
Rialto)
With just-baked strudel and reliably frothy cappuccino, Rosa Salva has provided
Venetians with fresh reasons to roll out of bed for over a century. Cheerfully efficient wo-
men working the spotless granite counter ensure that no
curasan
(croissant) order waits
for more than a minute, and supply gale-force espresso and turbo-loaded chocolate
profiteroles to power you across 30 more bridges.
A BECCAFICO €€
ITALIAN
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
( 041 527 48 79;
www.abeccafico.com
; Campo Santo Stefano 2801; meals €25-45; noon-3pm & 7-11pm;
Accademia)
Far from clubby pubs lining Venice's alleyways, A Beccafico basks in the sun-
shine of Campo Santo Stefano and open Venetian admiration. Instead of cold seafood on
toast, Chef Adeli serves Sicily-sized bowls of mussels under a bubbling, flaky crust. He
defies Venice's cardinal rule never to mix lagoon seafood with cheese, serving squid-ink
pasta with lemon zest and ricotta. Linger over feather-light Pieoropan Soave Classico, and
leave with a surprisingly full belly - and wallet.
