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EATING
ENOTECA AL VOLTO €
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VENETIAN, CICHETI BAR
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( 041 522 89 45; Calle Cavalli 4081; cicheti €2-4, meals under €25; 10am-3pm & 5.30-10pm Mon-Sat; Ri-
alto) Join the bar crowd working its way through the vast selection of wine and cicheti, or
come early for a table outdoors (in summer). Inside the snug backroom that looks like a
ship's hold, tuck into seaworthy bowls of pasta with bottarga (dried fish roe), steak
drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar, and housemade ravioli. Cash only.
BACARO DA FIORE €
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CICHETI BAR, VENETIAN
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( 041 523 53 10; www.dafiore.it ; Calle delle Botteghe 3461; meals €10-15; 5.30-9pm Wed-Mon; San
Samuele) Attached to a posh trattoria, this cicheti counter wins Venetian loyalty with small
plates of baccala mantecato (creamed cod), octopus-fennel salad, arancini (risotto balls)
and Venetian trippa (tripe) to enjoy on a stool at the bar or in the calle (lane). Even with
gorgeous DOC soave by the glass, meals cost a fraction of what you'd pay for table seat-
ing.
GELATERIA SUSO €
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( 348 564 65 45; Calle della Bissa 5453; gelati €2-5; 10am-10pm; ; Rialto) S Indulge in gelato
as rich as a doge, in original seasonal flavors like marscapone cream with fig sauce and
walnuts. All Suso's gelati are locally made and free of artificial colours, and even the
gluten-free flavors are extra creamy - but a waffle cone with hazelnut and extra-dark
chocolate passes as dinner.
GELATO
ART SMART
To see more of Pinault's collection of more than 2000 artworks, get a combined ticket (adult/reduced €20/15) that
gives you 72 hours to visit Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana, Venice's ancient customs houses renovated by
Ando in 2009 to showcase larger art installations.
OSTERIA DA CARLA €
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OSTERIA, CICHETI BAR
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