Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
TOP OF CHAPTER
Verona's Wine Country
A drive through Verona's hinterland is a lesson in fine wine. To the north and northwest
are Valpolicella vineyards, which predate the arrival of the Romans, and east on the road
to Vicenza lie the white-wine makers of Soave.
WINE TOURS
If you don't want to bother renting a car,
Pagus
( 045 751 44 28;
www.pagusvalpolicella.net
) of-
fers half- and full-day tours of Valpolicella and Soave, leaving regularly from Verona. Tours include
visits to unusual, rural sites, impromptu rambles, lunches in local restaurants and, of course, wine tast-
ings. Tours can also be customised.
Soave
Southeast of Verona, Soave serves its namesake DOC white wine in a story-book setting.
The town may be entirely encircled by medieval fortifications, including 24 bristling
watchtowers, but these days strangers are more than welcome to taste the good stuff
across from the old-town church at
Azienda Agricola Coffele
(
045 768 00 07;
www.coffele.it
;
Via Roma 5; 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat & by appt)
.
The more adventurous can climb up to Soave's medieval
castle
( 045 768 00 36;
www.castellodisoave.it
;
admission €6; 9am-noon & 3-6.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 9am-noon & 2-4pm
Oct-Mar)
and enjoy spectacular views over the surrounding countryside from the upper
ramparts. If you have a car, strike out for
Suavia
(
045 767 50 89;
www.suavia.it
; Via Centro
14, Fittà; 9am-1pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & by appt; )
, a trailblazing
winery in Fittà (about 8km north of Soave) run by the three Tessari daughters. Here, using
sun-ripe Garganega grapes, the often light Soave is transformed into something altogether
more complex with accents of licorice, aniseed and fennel.
Just outside the medieval walls of Soave,
Locanda Lo Scudo
( 045 768 07 66;
www.loscudo.vr.it
;
Via Covergnino 9, Soave; meals €35-45, s/d €75/110; 12.30-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm
Tue-Sat Sep-Jul)
is half country inn and half high-powered gastronomy. Book in here for
