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eatery. The look is rustic - bare wooden tables, paper tablecloths, wine bottles - and the
atmosphere one of controlled mayhem. The menu, chalked up on a blackboard, offers no
surprises, just honest, homey fare like
melanzane parmigiana
or roast chicken with pota-
toes.
Pizzeria da Baffetto
PIZZERIA
€
( 06 686 16 17;
www.pizzeriabaffetto.it
; Via del Governo Vecchio 114; pizzas €6-9; 6.30pm-1am;
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II)
For the full-on Roman pizza experience, get down to Baffetto.
Not everyone likes this historic pizzeria but if you're up for it, meals are raucous, chaotic
and fast, and the thin-crust pizzas are spot on. To partake, join the queue and wait to be
squeezed in wherever there's room. No credit cards. There's a sister outfit,
Baffetto 2
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(Piazza del Teatro di Pompeo 18;
6.30pm-12.30am Mon & Wed-Fri,
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II)
, near Campo de' Fiori.
12.30-3.30pm & 6.30pm-12.30am Sat & Sun;
Bar del Fico
(Via della Pace 34-35; meals €15-20; 8am-2am; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II)
Named after the
fig tree that shades the chess-playing old boys outside, Bar del Fico is good any time of
the day, from breakfast through to dinner. The big bowls of lunchtime pasta hit the spot
nicely and the low-key boho decor - rough wooden floors, tin tables and grey, chipped
walls - makes for a laid-back ambience.
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
€
Chiostro del Bramante Caffè
CAFE
€
(
www.chiostrodelbramante.it
; Vicolo dell'Arco della Pace 5; dishes €10-14; 10am-8pm; ; Corso
del Rinascimento)
This swish bistro-cafe is on the 1st floor of Bramante's elegant Renais-
sance cloisters. It's open throughout the day, so you can drink, snack or lunch on salads,
baguettes or light pastas, all the while making use of the free wi-fi. Aperitifs are served in
the early evening.
MODERN ITALIAN
€€
Casa Coppelle
( 06 6889 1707;
www.casacoppelle.it
;
Piazza delle Coppelle 49; meals €35; lunch & dinner;
Corso del Rinascimento)
Exposed brick walls, books, flowers and subdued lighting set the
