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stage for wonderful French-inspired food at this intimate, romantic restaurant. There's a
full range of starters and pastas but the real tour de force is the steak served with crunchy,
thinly sliced potato crisps. Service is quick and attentive. Book ahead.
TRATTORIA €€
Armando al Pantheon
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( 06 6880 3034; www.armandoalpantheon.it ; Salita dei Crescenzi 31; meals €40; closed Sat dinner,
Sun & Aug; Largo di Torre Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina) An institution in these parts,
wood-panelled Armando is a rare find - a genuine family-run trattoria in the touristy Pan-
theon area. It's been on the go for more than 50 years and has served its fair share of
celebs - philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre and Brazilian footballer Pelé have both eaten here -
but the focus remains on traditional Roman food. Reservations recommended.
Cul de Sac
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WINE BAR, TRATTORIA €€
( 06 6880 1094; www.enotecaculdesac.com ; Piazza Pasquino 73; meals €30; noon-4pm &
6pm-12.30am; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) A popular little wine bar, just off Piazza Navona,
with an always-busy terrace and narrow, bottle-lined interior. Choose from the encyclo-
pedic wine list and ample menu of Gallic-inspired cold cuts, pâtés, cheeses and main
courses. Book for dinner.
Ditirambo
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MODERN ITALIAN €€
( 06 687 16 26; www.ristoranteditirambo.it ; Piazza della Cancelleria 72; meals €40; closed lunch
Mon; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) Hugely popular Ditirambo broke culinary ground when it
opened in 1996, marrying the informality of an old-school trattoria with forward-looking,
creative cooking. Since then it has performed consistently well and it's still a top spot for
seasonal, organic cooking and excellent vegetarian dishes. Book ahead.
Sora Margherita
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TRATTORIA €€
( 06 687 42 16; Piazza delle Cinque Scole 30; meals €30-35; closed dinner Tue & Thu, all day Sun;
Via Arenula) No-frills Sora Margherita started as a cheap kitchen for hungry locals, but
word has spread and it's now a popular lunchtime haunt of everyone from local workers to
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