Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
drotherapy pool, jets and treatments. It's a 15-minute walk northeast of Il Castello. Or hop
on bus M to Via Bacaredda, 200m from the hotel.
Eating
Dining hot spots include the Marina area, Via Sassari and Corso Vittorio Emanuele. From
November to March (mollusc season), chioschi (kiosks) serve sea-fresh sea urchins and
mussels on Poetto beach.
Il Fantasma
( 070 65 67 49; Via San Domenico 94; pizzas €3-10; Mon-Sat) A five-minute walk east of
Piazza Martiri d'Italia, this boisterous pizzeria does the best pizza in Cagliari. Friendly
waiters adroitly navigate the crowded barrel-vaulted interior to deliver bubbling pizzas
straight from the wood-fired oven. Book or expect to queue.
PIZZERIA
Trattoria Gennargentu
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( 070 65 82 47; Via Sardegna 60; meals €20-25; closed Sun winter) Tables fill quickly at this
no-frills trattoria that dishes up excellent seafood. Try spaghetti with clams and bottarga
(mullet roe) or tonno alla carlofortina (tuna chunks served cold in a sweet tomato and
onion sauce).
SARDINIAN
St Remy
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SARDINIAN €€
( 070 65 73 77; www.stremy.it ; Via Torino 16; meals €25-35; 1-3pm & 7-10.30pm Mon-Fri,
7-10.30pm Sat) Tucked away on a sidestreet, St Remy keeps the mood intimate in a vaulted,
lime-washed space with stone arches. The menu puts a creative spin on Sardinian fla-
vours, with homemade pasta preluding mains like John Dory in a white wine and black
olive sauce - all cooked to a T and presented with panache.
Per Bacco
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SARDINIAN €€
( 070 65 16 67; www.enoperbacco.it ; Via Santa Restituta 72; meals €25-35; 8.30-11pm Mon-Sat)
Hidden in the alleys of Stampace is this friendly, low-key find, with stone walls and
cheek-by-jowl tables. The chef, Sabrina, allows ingredients to shine in simple, season-fo-
cused dishes. You might begin with antipasti such as Cabras bottarga with artichokes, fol-
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