Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WORTH A TRIP
SANTO STEFANO DI SESSANIO
Known as Sextantio in Roman times, this atmospheric hilltop village has a commanding position
overlooking two valleys. Although the 2009 earthquake that struck L'Aquila damaged a number of
buildings in Santo Stefano, including the iconic 18m-high watchtower (which completely collapsed), a
stroll through the
centro storico
(historic centre) reveals why the village is regarded as one of Gran
Sasso's most picturesque, and why it made the list as a
borghi più belli d'Italia
(one of the most beau-
tiful towns in Italy).
The town flourished in the 16th century under the rule of the Medici family, and the Medici coat of
arms can still be seen on the entrance portal to the main piazza. Subsequently left behind by history,
Santo Stefano was untouched by development, making it a perfect place for radical eco-restorer
Daniele Kihlgren to carry out his work. He invested in the town, on an agreement with the authorities
that no unsympathetic and ugly development would mar his vision.
The result is
Sextantio
( 0862 89 91 12;
www.sextantio.it
;
Via Principe Umberto; r €150-450;
) , an enchanting
albergo diffuso
(diffused hotel), which has a number of rooms and apartments
scattered throughout the
centro storico
. Rooms capture the authenticity of the past with handmade
blankets and rustic furniture made in the village, yet remain refined thanks to modern conveniences
such as underfloor heating, mood lighting and divinely deep bathtubs.
In Sextantio's restaurant,
Locanda Sotto gli Archi
(meals €50; dinner daily, lunch Sat & Sun) ,
tables adorned with soft candlelight evoke a medieval mood for a fixed menu of traditional Abruzzese
dishes.
Taking the SS17, Santo Stefano di Sessanio is 27km from L'Aquila, but a more scenic route takes
you through Fonte Cerreto on the main 17bis road and across the grand plateau of Campo Imperatore
before turning south to Santo Stefano (about 50km).
Festivals & Events
Madonna che Scappa in Piazza
In this unique Easter Sunday ritual, a mourning, black-clad Virgin Mary races across the
square when she sees her newly resurrected son - well, the statue bearers do the running -
while the Madonna's mourning cloak disappears and a flock of white doves fly into the
air.
RELIGIOUS
Giostra Cavalleresca di Sulmona
(
www.giostrasulmona.it
)
On the last weekend in July, local horse riders gallop around Piazza
Garibaldi in this medieval tournament. A week later, the competition is opened up to
riders from across Europe in the
Giostra Cavalleresca d'Europa
.
CULTURE
