Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WORTH A TRIP
SNAKES IN COCULLO
A one-horse hamlet in the hills west of Sulmona, Cocullo is the unlikely setting for one of Italy's
weirdest festivals. The
Processione dei Serpari
(Snake Charmers' Procession) is the highlight of cel-
ebrations to honour San Domenico, Cocullo's patron saint and protector against snake bites. Events
kick off at noon on the first Thursday of May when villagers gather in the main square to adorn a
statue of St Dominic with jewellery, banknotes and dozens of writhing snakes. Once dressed, the saint
is paraded through the streets by a team of fearless
serpari
. Local lore holds that if the snakes twist
around the saint's head it's good news for the year ahead; if they crawl up the arms, the omens are
bad.
Despite the religious element of the festivities, its origins are said to be pagan. Before the arrival of
Christianity, locals worshipped a goddess called Angizia, who supposedly had powers to cure snake
bites. As Christianity spread, the ancient deities were substituted by Christian saints and San Domen-
ico inherited Angizia's mantle.
The serpents used for the festival are harmless
cervoni
and
saettoni
. They are caught in the sur-
rounding countryside in late March and released back into the hills once the festivities are over.
Cocullo is accessible by a daily bus from Sulmona (€1.80, 30 minutes), although on festival day ex-
tra services are laid on - ask at Sulmona tourist office for details.
Sleeping
B&B Il Marchese del Grillo
( 0327 3570889;
www.bebilmarchesedelgrillo.it
;
Via Corfinio 62; d/tr €90/110; )
A wonderful
old-town B&B, combining terracotta floor tiles, rugged stone walls and great home com-
forts including huge wooden beds. The welcome is particularly warm, and the breakfast,
with fruit, homemade salami and pastries, is superb.
B&B
€
Albergo Ristorante Stella
( 0864 5 26 53;
www.hasr.it
;
Via Panfilo Mazara 18; s €40-50, d €70-80; )
A bright little
three-star place in the
centro storico
(historic centre) , the Stella offers 10 airy, modern
rooms and a smart, ground-floor restaurant-wine bar (€15 to €25). Discounts of around
20% are available for stays of more than one night.
HOTEL
€
