Newfoundland & Labrador - Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island - page 438

which was declared a Unesco World Heritage site in 2013 - uses different media to
chronicle the discovery of three 16th-century Basque whaling galleons on the seabed
here. Well preserved in the ice-cold waters, the vestiges of the ships tell a remarkable
story of what life was like here some four centuries ago. Red Bay was the largest whaling
port in the world, with more than 2000 people residing here. Have a look at the recon-
structed chalupa (a small Basque dingy used for whale hunting) and some of the other
relics in the museum. Then hop in a small boat ($2) to nearby Saddle Island , where
there is a self-guided interpretive trail around the excavated land sites. Allow at least two
or three hours for the museum and island.
Across the bay, the amazing Boney Shore Trail (2km) skirts along the coast and
passes ancient whale bones (they pretty much look like rocks) scattered along it. The
Tracey Hill Trail climbs a boardwalk and 670 steps to the top of American Rockyman
Hill for a bird's-eye view of the harbor; it takes about 20 minutes each way.
Between the trails and the historic site, a 15m, 400-year-old North Atlantic right
whale skeleton sprawls through the Selma Barkham Town Centre (admission $2;
9am-5pm Jul-Sep) .
Basinview B&B ( 709-920-2002; [e-mail]; 145 Main St; r $55-90) is a
simple four-room, shared bathroom home right on the water.
Remember, Red Bay is the end of the paved road... for now. Another 200km of the
hard-packed gravel is scheduled to be paved by 2015.
Battle Harbour
Sitting on an island in the Labrador Sea is the elaborately restored village and saltfish
premises of Battle Harbour. Now a national historic district, it used to be the unofficial
'capital' of Labrador during the early 19th century, when fishing schooners lined its
docks. Another claim to fame: this is the place where Robert E Peary gave his first news
conference after reaching the North Pole in 1909.
It's accessed by boat from Mary's Harbour (departure at 11am, one hour). Accommod-
ations are spread among various heritage homes and cottages operated by the Battle Har-
bour Inn ( 709-921-6325; [e-mail]; r $175; Jun-Sep) . A store
and restaurant (mains $9-18; 8am-6pm) are also on-site. At press time, trips were set up
as an overnight package deal, but day trips are on the docket. Contact the inn for details.