Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 506-662-3181; www.whalecovecottages.ca ; Whistle Rd, North Head; mains $22-28; 5-9pm)
Absolutely wonderful food in a relaxed country setting on the cove. The menu changes
daily, but includes mouth-watering upscale meals such as Provençal-style rack of lamb,
scallop ravioli and a to-die-for hazelnut crème caramel for dessert. Come early and have
a cocktail by the fire in the cozy, old-fashioned parlor.
Shopping
Roland's Sea Vegetables MARKET
( www.rolandsdulse.com ; 174 Hill Rd; 9am-6pm) Grand Manan is one of the few remaining
producers of dulse, a type of seaweed that is used as a snack food or seasoning in Atlant-
ic Canada and around the world. Dark Harbour, on the west side of the island, is said to
produce the world's best. Dulse gatherers wade among the rocks at low tide to pick the
seaweed, then lay it out on beds of rocks to dry just as they've been doing for hundreds
of years. Buy some at this little roadside market, which sells various types of edible local
seaweeds from nori to sea lettuce to Irish moss. Sandy, Roland's son, recommends
sprinkling powdered dulse on fried eggs or baked fish.
Information
Tourist Information Office ( www.grandmanannb.com ; 130 Rte 776, North Head;
8am-4pm
Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)
Getting There & Around
The only way to get on and off the island from Blacks Harbour on the mainland to North
Head on Grand Manan is by the government ferry ( 506-662-3724;
www.coastaltransport.ca ; adult/child/car/bicycle $12/6/33/4; ticket office at North Head ferry
terminal) . The crossing takes 1½ hours, and there are seven departures daily in summer.
Service is first-come, first-served at Blacks Harbour; plan on arriving at least 45 minutes
before departure. In July and August especially there can be long queues for vehicles to
board, but cyclists and pedestrians can walk on at any time. No ticket is required for the
trip over; book and pay for your return trip in North Head the day before you plan to
leave for the mainland. Watch for harbor porpoises and whales en route.
The ferry dock is within walking distance of several hotels, restaurants, shops and tour
operators. To explore the whole of the island, bring your own car, as there is no rental
company on Grand Manan.
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