New Brunswick - Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island - page 243

fresh seafood dinners (mains $18 to $28) and takeout lunches; nonguests can call ahead
to order.

Inn at Whale Cove INN $$$
( 506-662-3181; www.whalecovecottages.ca ; Whistle Rd, North Head; s/d incl breakfast $135/145;
May-Oct) 'Serving rusticators since 1910,' including writer Willa Cather, who wrote
several of her novels here in the 1920s and '30s. The main lodge (built in 1816) and half
a dozen vine-covered and shingled cottages retain the charm of that earlier era. They are
fitted with polished pine floors and stone fireplaces, antiques, chintz curtains and well-
stocked bookshelves. Some have kitchens .

Compass Rose B&B $$$
( 506-662-8570, off-season 613-471-1772; www.compassroseinn.com ; 65 Rte 776, North Head; r
incl breakfast $105-149) Cheerful, comfortable guest rooms with a seashore motif and har-
bor views. Within walking distance of the ferry dock, it has one of the island's most at-
mospheric restaurants (mains $12-$18) attached.

Eating
The island's scant options are nearly nonexistent in the off-season (October to early
June). That said, there is some fine eating on Grand Manan. Reservations are essential
for dinner due to limited table space island-wide.

North Head Bakery BAKERY $
( www.northheadbakery.ca ; 199 Rte 776, North Head; baked goods $1-5; 6:30am-5:30pm Tue-Sat
May-Oct) Scrumptious Danish pastries, fruit pies and artisanal breads made with organic
flour make this cheerful red-and-white bakery the first stop for many folks just off the
ferry. Sit at the lunch counter with a coffee and sandwich and watch the parade.

Sailors Landing CANADIAN $
( 506-662-9620; 1 Ferry Wharf Rd, North Head; mains $5-10; 6am-10pm Mon-Fri, to 11pm Sat,
7am-9pm Sun) In a hangarlike corrugated metal building by the ferry dock, this updated
restaurant offers a 'featured menu' daily, plus fresh, locally caught seafood and
homemade desserts.

Inn at Whale Cove MODERN CANADIAN $$$ $$$