Nova Scotia - Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island - page 166

TOP OF CHAPTER
Port Hastings & Port Hawkesbury
Cape Breton Island ceased to be a true island when the Canso Causeway was built across
the Strait of Canso in 1955. A big and busy visitors information center (VIC;
902-625-4201; 96 Hwy 4; 9am-8pm) is on your right as you drive onto Cape Breton Is-
land. This is definitely worth a stop: there are few other information centers on Cape
Breton, especially outside of July and August; the staff is very well informed; and one
wall is covered with posters advertising square dances and ceilidhs.
If you need lunch or a kick of caffeine, stop in at Haven Coffee Bar (3 Water St, Port
Hawkesbury; sandwiches $6.75; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) . They bake their own bread, brew a
fine cup of joe and provide a cozy place to enjoy it all on the waterfront, although there's
not much of a view.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Ceilidh Trail
Take a hard left immediately after leaving the Port Hastings VIC to get on the Ceilidh
Trail (Hwy 19), which snakes along the western coast of the island. Then put on your
dancing shoes: this area was settled by Scots with fiddles in hand and is renowned for its
ceilidh music performances, square dances and parties.
For a great introduction to local culture, visit the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre (
902-787-2708; www.celticmusiccentre.com ; 5473 Hwy 19, Judique; admission $12; 9am-5pm
Mon-Fri Jun-Aug) . Half-hour tours (which can be self-guided if you arrive when no guides
are available) include a fiddle lesson and a dance step or two. Square dances are advert-
ised around the admissions desk - try a Saturday dance at the community hall in West
Mabou or a Thursday evening dance in Glencoe Mills. Ceilidhs at the music center itself
are held at 11:30am Monday to Friday during summer.
Creignish B&B ( 902-625-5709; www.bbcanada.com/159.html ; 2154 Hwy 19; s/d $30/60;
Jun-Nov) is a 'recycled school house' that's been turned into a guesthouse and artist's
haven. Wildflowers, shells and bones are everywhere and there's even a giant stuffed
tuna hanging on the ceiling. 'Improvised' arts and crafts classes are offered and owner
Sandra can point you to the best-hidden secrets of Cape Breton Island. Rooms are large
and comfortable, and the B&B is only a 10-minute drive from the causeway.