Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
To the English, however, they would always be French, with whom rivalry and
suspicion was constant. Considering it an affront to their Catholic faith, the Acadi-
ans refused to take an oath of allegiance to the English king after the Treaty of
Utrecht granted Nova Scotia to the British. When hard-line lieutenant governor
Charles Lawrence was appointed in 1754, he became fed up with the Acadians and
ordered their deportation. The English burned many villages and forced some
14,000 Acadians onto ships.
Many Acadians headed for Louisiana and New Orleans; others went to various
Maritime points, New England, Martinique in the Caribbean, Santo Domingo in the
Dominican Republic, or back to Europe. Not once were they greeted warmly with
open arms. Some hid out and remained in Acadia. In later years many of the depor-
ted people returned but found their lands occupied. In Nova Scotia, Acadians re-
settled the Chéticamp area on Cape Breton Island and the French Shore north of
Yarmouth. New Brunswick has a large French population stretching up the east
coast past the Acadian Peninsula at Caraquet.
CAPE BRETON ISLAND
Floating over the rest of Nova Scotia like an island halo, Cape Breton is a heavenly, for-
ested realm of bald eagles, migrating whales, palpable history and foot-tapping music.
Starting up the Ceilidh Trail along the western coastline, Celtic music vibrates through
the pubs and community centers, eventually reaching the Cabot Trail where more-eclect-
ic Acadian-style tunes ring out around Chéticamp.
The 300km Cabot Trail continues around Cape Breton Highlands National Park. It
winds and climbs around and over coastal mountains, with heart-stopping ocean views at
every turn, moose on the roads (watch out!) and plenty of trails to stop and hike.
Take a side trip to Glace Bay to learn firsthand about the region's coal-mining history;
Fortress Louisbourg in the east, to get a taste of 18th-century military life; or the High-
land Village Museum in Iona, to get some visuals of what life was like for early Scottish
immigrants. The region around Bras d'Or Lake offers opportunities to explore the past
and present of the Mi'kmaq First Nation and in Baddeck you can learn everything you
ever wanted to know about Alexander Graham Bell.
Most tourists visit in July and August, and many restaurants, accommodations and
VICs are only open from mid-June through September. Celtic Colours ( www.celtic-col-
ours.com ; Oct) , a wonderful roving music festival that attracts top musicians from
Scotland, Spain and other countries with Celtic connections, helps extend the season into
the fall, a superb time to visit.
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