Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
and how they're expressed in daily life. The term 'backstreet' refers to New Orleans'
'back o' town,' or the poor African American neighborhoods. If you have any interest in
Mardi Gras Indian suits (African Americans who dress up in Carnival-esque Native
American costume), second lines and the activities of social aid and pleasure clubs (the
local African American community version of civic associations), you need to stop by.
Le Musée de FPC
MUSEUM
(Free People of Color Museum;
www.lemuseedefpc.com
;
2336 Esplanade Ave; adult/child $10/5;
11am-4pm Wed-Sat)
Inside a lovely 1859 Greek Revival mansion in the Upper Tremé, this
museum showcases a 30-year collection of artifacts, documents, furniture and art, telling
the story of a forgotten subculture: the 'free people of color' before the Civil War. Also
opens by appointment.
St Louis Cemetery No 1
CEMETERY
(Basin St; 9am-3pm Mon-Sat, to noon Sun; )
This cemetery received the remains of
most early Creoles. The shallow water table necessitated above ground burials, with bod-
ies placed in the family tombs you see to this day. The supposed grave of voodoo queen
Marie Laveau is here, scratched with XXXs from spellbound devotees - this is graffiti
you shouldn't add to, per the request of the family that owns the tomb. Do not come here
at night; the area can be dangerous.
New Orleans African American Museum
MUSEUM
(
www.thenoaam.org
; 1418 Governor Nicholls St; adult/student/child $7/5/3; 11am-4pm Wed-
Sat)
This small museum features rotating displays of local artists and semi-permanent in-
stallations on slavery and African American history in a series of tidy Creole homes.
St Augustine's Church
CHURCH
( 504-525-5934;
www.staugustinecatholicchurch-neworleans.org
; 1210 Governor Nicholls St)
The 1824 church is the second-oldest African American Catholic church in the US; many
jazz funeral processions originate here. It has Sunday services but you'll need to call
ahead for a tour. Note the haunting cross fashioned from chains on the side of the build-
ing marking the
Tomb of the Unknown Slave
.
