Travel Reference
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panding. Video screens project your distorted image and falling language on the wall as
you wait for the elevator. Chandeliers made from scissors dangle in the hallways. Urban
loft-like rooms have iPod docks and mint julep kits in the mini-fridge.
The hotel restaurant, Proof ( Click here ) , is one of the city's hippest New Southern bis-
tros, and service could not be finer. Parking is $18.
Brown Hotel HOTEL$$$
$$$
( 502-583-1234; www.brownhotel.com ; 335 West Broadway; r from $250; ) Opera
stars, queens and prime ministers have trod the marble floors of this storied downtown
hotel, now restored to all its 1920s gilded glamour with 293 comfy rooms and a swank
bar. Parking is $18.
Eating
The number of incredible kitchens multiplies every year, especially in the engaging
NuLu area, where there are numerous galleries and boutiques to explore. The Highlands
area around Bardstown and Baxter Rds is another popular nightlife and dining spot.
Hillbilly Tea APPALACHIAN$$$
( 502-587-7350; 120 S First St; dishes $10-17; 10am-9pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun) An excellent
value cafe off Main St specializing in Appalachian food with a modern twist. You may
find smoked catfish served over smashed potatoes or a smoked cornish hen over brussels
and parsnips, and the grilled moonshine pork loin looks fantastic.
Garage Bar GASTROPUB$$$
( www.garageonmarket.com ; 700 E Market St; dishes $7-16) The best thing to do on a warm af-
ternoon in Louisville is to make your way to this über-hip converted NuLu service sta-
tion (accented by two kissing Camaros) and order a round of basil gimlets and the ham
platter: a tasting of four regionally cured hams, served with fresh bread and preserves.
Then move onto the menu which ranges from the best brick-oven pizza in town, to
pork meatballs and turkey wings, to rolled oysters that are divine.
Wiltshire on Market NEW AMERICAN$$$
( 502-589-5224; www.wiltshirepantry.com ; 636 Market St; mains $14-23; 5-10pm Thu & Sun,
to 11pm Fri & Sat) The live music on Sunday nights and community-activist chef are ap-
pealing, sure, but the reasonably priced gourmet eats are why you're here. Choose from a
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