Where to Dine - Chicago 2005 - page 126

A Spot of Tea Tips

If you're shopping on the Magnificent Mile and feel like having an ele-
gant afternoon tea complete with finger sandwiches, scones, and pas-
tries, head for the stately Palm Court at The Drake, 140 E. Walton Place
( & 312/787-2200 ), the cozy Seasons Lounge of the Four Seasons Hotel,
120 E. Delaware Place ( & 312/280-8800 ), or The Greenhouse in the
Ritz-Carlton, 160 E. Pearson St. ( & 312/266-1000 ), in the sunny 12th-
floor lobby above the Water Tower Place mall. In the Loop, the appro-
priately named Russian Tea Time, 77 E. Adams St. ( & 312/360-0000 ),
serves tea from 2:30 to 4:30pm daily.

included choices such as Insane Black Truffle Soup and Nut 'n Honey Foie
Gras). Meals here are all prix fixe; if your wallet and stomach permit, shell out
the big bucks for the seven-course Grand Collection or eight-course Tramonto's
Collection. Appetizers include a visually sensational caviar staircase (caviars and
fixin's climbing a glass spiral staircase), black-truffle risotto with rabbit confit
and chanterelles, or venison carpaccio with sweet-potato compote and cherry
sauce. For entrees, “Surf, Turf, and Turf ” combines roasted lobster with sweet-
breads and foie gras; while “Tramonton's Backyard Barbecue” is a mix of roasted
pork tenderloin, cured pork belly, and smoked veal jus. The latest additions to
the menu are dishes that are prepared and served tableside, such as roasted duck
with duck consommé and duck foie gras ravioli.
Gand's desserts perfectly echo Tramonto's savory menus; sate your sweet tooth
with her roasted pineapple carpaccio, “soup and sandwich” (hot chocolate soup
with marshmallows, peanut butter, and banana bread pudding), or chocolate
and blood-orange soufflés. Service is generally polished but not pompous; the
expansive wine list is a treat for oenophiles, with 1,200 selections. The restau-
rant is nonsmoking.
676 N. St. Clair St. (at Huron St.). & 312/202-0001. www.trurestaurant.com. Reservations required. 3-
course prix-fixe menu $75; 7- or 8-course menu $75-$125. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 5:30-10pm;
Fri-Sat 5:30-11pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago/State.
EXPENSIVE
Eli's, the Place for Steak STEAK Every big town has its short list of
restaurant institutions—Eli's is definitely on Chicago's. But although Eli's is now
mostly known for its dense cheesecake (one of our mayor's favorite desserts), the
restaurant has some deep roots of its own. The potato pancakes and the sautéed
liver and onions served here are variations on the central European comfort
foods that found their way to Chicago by way of a neighborhood delicatessen
where the late Eli Schulman got his start in Chicago more than 50 years ago (a
stained-glass portrait of Schulman overlooks the somewhat dated dining room).
This is definitely old-school dining, with a piano bar in front and some vin-
tage waiters, but it will appeal to visitors who value tradition over trendiness.
Meals begin with a scoop of delicate chopped liver, accompanied by diced eggs
and onions, colorful crudités of fresh vegetables, and a basket of various breads
and rolls. The restaurant's signature appetizer is the shrimp de jonghe, baked to
succulent perfection with garlic and bread crumbs. The steaks are among the
menu's highlights, and liver connoisseurs will appreciate the calves' liver Eli, a