Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
This is a great place for a slice of carnivorous Chicago power dining—and a
slice of Key lime pie or New York cheesecake.
1050 N. State St. & 312/266-4820. www.mortons.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses
$20-$33. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm; Sun 5-10pm. Subway/El: Red Line to State/Chicago.
Pump Room AMERICAN/FRENCH The Pump Room is definitely
an iconic Chicago restaurant, but these days its main draw is nostalgia—not the
food. Back when celebrities journeyed by train between Hollywood and New
York and stopped in Chicago to court the press, they always had a meal at the
Pump Room. Diners at Booth One inevitably showed up in the morning papers.
Today, the only celebrities you're likely to see here are the photographs of movie
stars lining the walls. It's the kind of place that's thought of fondly as a local
institution, but a recent turnover of chefs has made the cuisine inconsistent.
Like the interior, the menu has had a few makeovers over the years; today, the
focus is on classic American dishes with a sophisticated twist. Appetizers run the
range from a simple beef tartare or caviar plate to a “flight” of different foie gras
preparations. The entrees are similarly upscale, including Maine lobster with
apple-tarragon puree; poached ostrich tenderloin; or lamb loin with a mint
pesto crust. (Recently, the menu even featured a daily “South Beach Diet”
seafood entree.) There's a live band and dancing every Friday and Saturday night
from 8pm to midnight.
In the Omni Ambassador East Hotel, 1301 N. State Pkwy. (at Goethe St.). & 312/266-0360. Reservations
required. No jeans allowed. Main courses $23-$36. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 7am-2pm and 6-10pm;
Fri-Sat 7am-2pm and 6pm-midnight; Sun 10:30am-2pm and 6-10pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Clark/Division.
Spiaggia ITALIAN Spiaggia means “beach” in Italian, and the restau-
rant's name is a tribute to its spectacular view of Lake Michigan and the Oak
Street Beach. But this is no casual beach cafe. Spiaggia is widely acknowledged
as the best fine-dining Italian restaurant in the city. The dining room is bright,
airy, and sophisticated, an atmosphere far removed from your neighborhood
trattoria (wear your jackets, gentlemen).
You can order a la carte or a seven-course degustation menu; entree choices
change often and emphasize seasonal ingredients. Recent starters included
carpaccio of smoked Sicilian swordfish or pork loin wrapped in pancetta, served
with sautéed artichoke hearts in a balsamic vinegar dressing. This ain't your
Mama's pasta, either: Recent offerings have included pheasant-stuffed ravioli,
pumpkin risotto, and gnocchi with black truffle sauce. Entree examples include
classic zuppa di pesce and products of the restaurant's wood-burning oven,
including monkfish; salmon; duck breast with Ligurian black olives, tomatoes,
fennel, and baby artichokes; and grilled squab over lentils with foie gras. The
classic Spiaggia dessert is the baba all'arancia, a cake soaked in orange liqueur
and served with orange cream; the chilled mascarpone-cheese torte with rich
chocolate gelato and espresso sauce is another high point.
Adjacent to the restaurant in a narrow, window-lined space is the informal,
lower-priced Café Spiaggia ( & 312/280-2764 ), which is open for lunch and
Sunday brunch.
980 N. Michigan Ave. (at Oak St.). & 312/280-2750. www.levyrestaurants.com. Reservations strongly sug-
gested on weekends. Main courses $29-$38 dinner; menu degustation $135. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun-Thurs
5:30-9:30pm; Fri-Sat 5:30-10pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Chicago/State.
Tru CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN The sense of humor of chefs
Rick Tramonto and Gale Gand shines through their menus, making Tru an
approachable fine-dining experience (the appetizer list, for example, has
Overrated
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