Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
vandalism involved, these quirky additions have proved a hit with Cambodians and
ethnic Chinese. The latter closely identify with the temple's
legend
, which tells of a
baby boy from Kompong Cham who was gobbled up by a large fish; the fish swam
down the Mekong and on to the coast of China, where it was eventually caught and
the child, still alive, discovered. The boy subsequently made his way back to Cambodia,
bringing with him a retinue of Chinese, who all settled at Kompong Cham, which the
locals say explains why so many Chinese live in the area, and possibly why there is a
Chinese temple in the grounds.
Another modern building, just to the south of the temple complex, contains a
reclining Buddha
, decapitated during the Khmer Rouge era. The head was missing
for years until a workman dreamed that it was buried close by; sure enough, the dream
came true, and the head was soon dug up in the grounds and reunited with the
body. Newlyweds use the temple as a backdrop for their photographs, and it's not
unusual to find a group of women in the gopura helping a bride into each of her
several wedding outfits.
Phnom Bpros Phnom Srei
8km west of Kompong Cham off NR7 • $2; ticket also valid for Wat Nokor (see p.215) • Moto from Kompong Cham around $7 return,
tuk-tuk $10
The twin hills of
Phnom Bpros Phnom Srei
(“Man and Woman Hills”) can be easily
combined with a visit to Wat Nokor. The lower hill,
Phnom Bpros
, is topped by a
collection of modern pagodas, the newest a grey cement structure with touches of
ersatz Angkor Wat- and Banteay Srei-style decoration. It's possible to drive to the top of
this hill, which is home to a colony of wild monkeys who hang around in the hope of
being fed bananas sold at the refreshment stall. At the foot of the hill, on the way to
Phnom Srei, is a collection of
stupas
built by relatives of the thousands of victims
murdered by the Khmer Rouge in the surrounding fields; most of the remains were
removed to Phnom Penh in 2000.
Phnom Srei
is the higher of the two hills; leafy and less developed, it's reached by the
track across fields beyond the stupas. From the base, a steep stairway goes straight to
the top where, in addition to the view, you can take in the vihara's collection of Buddha
statues dating back to the colonial period. The much-revered statue of Nandin in front
of the altar just asks to be stroked, which is what you'll see many visitors doing.
4
Phnom Hann Chey
20km north of Kompong Cham • Moto from Kompong Cham around $12 return, tuk-tuk $15
For stunning views of the Mekong,
Phnom Hann Chey
, on the west bank of the
Mekong, is hard to beat. The hill is also home to a modern temple complex in whose
grounds you'll find a couple of Phnom Da-era brick-and-laterite prasats cheek by jowl
with funky giant concrete fruits.
Kratie and around
Seventy kilometres north of Kompong Cham on the east bank of the Mekong,
KRATIE
(pronounced
Kra
-cheh) has become a popular tourist destination thanks to
the rare
Irrawaddy dolphins
that inhabit the river upstream at nearby
Kampie
.
Dolphin-watching trips can also be easily combined with a visit to the lovely hilltop
meditation centre of
Phnom Sambok
and the temple and turtle conservation project
at
Sambor
, further upriver, while the chance to explore nearby river islands, go
kayaking or head off along the
Mekong Discovery Trail
(see box, p.218) may tempt
you to linger longer.
