Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
fishermen, mostly stateless ethnic
Vietnamese
who have been here for decades, despite
being widely distrusted by the Khmer. Most live in extremely basic conditions, their
livelihoods increasingly threatened by the government, which has awarded large fishing
concessions to wealthy businessmen at the expense of local villagers and who now have to
either practise their trade illegally or rent a share from a concessionaire.
The ever-increasing numbers of tourists visiting the Tonle Sap villages has provided an
important new source of revenue, although the downside (at least from the visitor's
point of view) is the steady erosion of traditional local life and increasingly theme-park
atmosphere, particularly at the coach-party honeypot of
Chong Khneas
, while even
formerly quieter villages down the lake such as
Kompong Phluk
and
Kompong Kleang
are no longer wholly immune. For a more authentic view of the Tonle Sap, head to the
floating villages near Pursat and Kompong Chnnang on the opposite side of the lake
(see p.109 & p.112).
As well as the villages, twitchers are attracted to the lake to explore the
Prek Toal
Biosphere Reserve
, home to numerous species of waterbird.
3
Phnom Krom
Access via the steep stairway that leads up from behind the petrol station in the village at the foot of the hill
If you're heading to the lake from Siem Reap, it's worth detouring up the 137m-high
hill of
Phnom Krom
to the grounds of a modern pagoda on the summit, which offers
commanding
views
over the Tonle Sap from the top, particularly scenic at sunset.
There's also a ruined tenth-century
temple
up here, built by Yasovarman I. The three
crumbling sandstone sanctuary towers, dedicated to Vishnu (north), Shiva (centre) and
Brahma (south), stand in a row on a low platform; a few carvings can still be made out,
including an apsara on the north face of the north tower and a
hamsa
(sacred goose) on
the south tower.
Chong Khneas
Around 18km south of Siem Reap (just offshore from the Siem Reap boat dock at Phnom Krom - arriving by boat from Phnom Penh or
Battambang you'll pass the village as you pull in to the dock) • Entrance to the village plus 90min boat trip $20/person
The closest of the lakeside villages to Siem Reap (and the one that tuk-tuk drivers are
talking about when they offer to take you to “the floating village”),
CHONG KHNEAS
now pulls in regular crowds of coach parties on whistlestop tours looking for a quick
taste of lakeside life after a morning at the temples. It's about as authentic as a plastic
dodo, increasingly dominated by tourism and with plenty of money-grabbing hassles
too, although perhaps worth a look if you can't make it to any of the more peaceful
villages further around the lake. In the rainy season, when the lake floods right up to
TOURS OF THE TONLE SAP LAKE
There are a number of options when it comes to touring the Tonle Sap lake.
TOUR OPERATORS
Beyond Unique Escapes
Cnr Alley West & Sivatha
Blvd
T
077 562565,
W
beyonduniqueescapes.com.
This operator (see p.145) offers excellent value,
excellent service, guaranteed departures and small
groups, with tours to Kompong Phluk (or Kompong
Kleang during the height of the dry season).
Osmose Nature Tours
W
osmosetonlesap.net.
Insightful lake trips run by this local NGO (see p.145)
who specialize in the Prek Toal area of the Tonle.
Tara River Boat
T
092 957765,
W
taraboat.com.
The main tour operator for the lake, offering half-day
tours ($27) on their big boat around Chong Khneas,
plus sunset tours ($33) with free meal and
unlimited drinks. They can also arrange trips to
Kompong Phluk ($60), Kompong Kleang ($72) and Prek
Toal ($125) using smaller boats. Tickets for most trips
can be bought from hotels and tour operators in Siem
Reap (see p.145).
