Vietnam - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 859

VIETNAM THE FAR NORTH
BAC HA AND AROUND
he small, untouristy town of BAC HA ,
nestling in a high valley 40km northeast
of Highway 7, is a good base for
exploring nearby minority villages.
Numerous travellers also come here on a
long day-excursion from Sa Pa, especially
on Sunday for the lively and colourful
local market.

of Tireu Cai and a 6km return walk to
Na Ang village; both are best done with a
local guide.

Can Cau market
he village of CAN CAU , 19km north of
Bac Ha, hosts a market each Saturday,
which is well worth visiting. he
emphasis is on livestock, especially
buffalo, with traders trekking in from as
far afield as China in search of bargains.
Relatively few visitors get here, and the
fair retains much of its authenticity; you
may well be invited to drink some ruou
with the locals. It's possible to arrange
guided trips from Bac Ha that take in the
market and include an afternoon trek to
the nearby Fula village.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By bus Local buses terminate at Bac Ha's bus station, near
the market's south entrance in the centre of town. Tourist
buses running directly to Sa Pa depart from the main square
outside the post o ce between 1pm and 2pm on Sundays;
and regular minibuses depart for Sa Pa from Lao Cai. To get
to Bac Ha from Sa Pa, it's easier and quicker to join a tour
($15), which will include the market and a short trek, with
the option of being dropped off at Lao Cai on the way back
if catching a night train to Hanoi. A motorbike from Sa Pa
takes three hours and costs $30-35, from Lao Cai $25.
Information Operating out of Hoang Vu Guesthouse ,
Mr Nghe is by far the best source of information on the
area, and his website W bachatouurist.com is a great
starting point for planning your trip.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Bac Ha is a far less commercial town than
Sa Pa, and makes for a peaceful alternative,
if you're looking to interact with local
minority tribes without the hard sell
employed by some of Sa Pa's tour agencies.
Guided treks and trips around Bac Ha can
be arranged through one indefatigable,
knowledgeable local (see below).

11

Bac Ha Sunday Market
Bac Ha's Sunday market (6am-2pm) sees
villagers of the Tay, Dao, hai, hulao,
Xa Fang, Lachi, Fula, Nung, Giay and
Flower Hmong ethnic minorities
converging on the town, transforming
the otherwise rather drab centre into a
mass of colour and activity. Everything
- from haircuts to suits, vats of rice wine
and corn liquor to bundles of incense,
and of course the usual vegetables, meat
and dried fish - is on sale. he stunningly
adorned Flower Hmong women trade
embroidery, cloth and silver, and there's a
large livestock fair to the rear of the
market. Hotels in Sa Pa can organize a
long day-trip to the Sunday market for
about $15 per person, but it's far better
to stay overnight in Bac Ha and visit the
market early to avoid the Sunday crowds.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
The town's hotels and restaurants are clustered around the
square near the post o ce.
Cong Fu Hotel T 020 3880254. Smart mini-hotel
offering the most modern accommodation in Bac Ha;
some rooms have huge windows overlooking the livestock
market. The restaurant (daily 11am-9pm) is popular with
the Sunday tourists for its chea p rice and noodle dishes
(from 50,0000VND). Double $25
★

Hiking around Bac Ha
he picturesque Flower Hmong hamlet
of BAN PHO , 3km from town, makes a
pleasant stroll. Take the road half left at
the hammer-and-sickle sign and head
down past the Sao Mai Hotel , turning left
immediately after the next big building,
which is the local hospital. he road
continues up the hill for 2km after the
village, and affords good views of the
valley; you can carry on to the nearby
village of Na Kheo . Other good day hikes
include an 8km return walk to the village

Hoang Vu Hotel T 020 880264, W bachatouurist
.com. Basic but friendly hotel with ten large en-suite
rooms. The owner, Mr Nghe, knows everything there is to
know about the surrounding area and can arrange all
manner of t ours and transport, and rent out motorbikes.
Double $10
Ngan Nga Bac Ha Hotel 115-117 Ngoc Uyen T 020
3880286, W nganngabachahotel.com. The rooms are
spacious though a little worn, and the family that runs
this place is friendly and helpful; you can even sweet-talk