Vietnam - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 858

ETIQUETTE
There's a whole debate about the ethics of cultural tourism and its negative impact on
traditional ways of life. Most villagers are genuinely welcoming, appreciating contact with
Westerners. Nonetheless, it's important to take a responsible attitude, and try not to cause
offence. It's preferable to visit the minority villages as part of a small group , ideally four
people or fewer, as this causes least disruption and allows for greater communication. Dress
modestly (no shorts or vests), never take photographs without asking and only enter a house
when invited, removing your shoes first and carrying your backpack in your hands; don't ever
enter homes with leaves, bones or feathers hanging above the entrance. If you're staying
overnight, remember that your hosts go to bed early and get up early. Respect religious rituals
and symbols. To avoid fostering a culture of begging, rather than bringing gifts, see if you can
contribute to the community in a meaningful way by donating to a local school, hiring a local
guide and purchasing local crafts. Take all your litter with you.

11

king-sized beds, wooden floors, electric blankets and a
choice of breakfasts make this a good option. On th e
downside, the staff don't speak much English. Double $25
Sa Pa Lodge Hotel 18A Muong Hoa T 020 3772885,
W sapalodge.net. Though only some have incredible views
of the valley below ($20), all rooms here are spacious and
have a/ c th at doubles as a heater. Staff are very helpful.
Double $10
White Lotus Hotel 8 Muong Hoa T 020 3658668,
E [e-mail]. A cheapie that's great value for
money, with comfortable beds, attentive staff and good food
at the on-site restaurant. If you're pinching yo ur pe nnies, go
for the cheapest rooms without views. Double $10

Hmong Sisters 31 Muong Hoa. Cosy little bar with
thumping music, a good mix of locals and visitors, and a
pool table to while away the evening. Daily 4pm-late.
Little Sa Pa 18 Cau May. The best bet for Vietnamese
food, right in the middle of Sa Pa, the menu running the
gamut from curries, pho and spring rolls to filled pancakes,
enormous hotpots and mulled wine - perfect for warming
your cockles on a cold evening. Mains from 60,000VND.
Daily 11am-10pm.
Mountain Bar and Pub 2 Muong Hoa. Very popular
night spot with lethal cocktails, raucous games of table
football, shishas, massive hamburgers and pick-me-up
warm apple wine. Daily 5pm-1am.
Sapa O'Chau Café 8 Thac Bac. A gathering point for
hikers and homesick travellers, this cheerful café, part of
the Sapa O'Chau tour agency, serves scrumptious beer-
battered fish and chips, full English breakfasts, and a range
of Vietnamese dishes. Great coffee, too. Mains from
60,000VND. Daily 8am-6pm.
Why Not Bar 2 Thac Bac. Tucked away a block from the
main square, this friendly bar, run by a graduate of Hanoi's
KOTO school for disadvantaged youths, has a free pool
table, cheap beer (20,000VND) and cocktails for just
50,000VND, making it a great place to unwind after days
of hiking. Daily noon-11pm.

EATING AND DRINKING
For local barbecued meat, pho and rice dishes, try the food
stalls on Pham Xuan Huan, parallel to Cau May. Stalls also
pop up in the evenings by the market and along Ngu Chi
Son, by Sa Pa Lake. There's a bia hoi on the corner of Cau
May and Fansipan.
Baguette & Chocolat Thac Bac. For delicious breakfasts,
bakery snacks, pizzas and Vietnamese favourites, look no
further than this cosy branch of a Hanoian-based training
school for disadvantaged youth. They also sell lunch
packets for gourmet hikers. Mains 75,000VND. Daily
7.30am-9pm.
Boutique Sa Pa Hotel Restaurant 41 Fansipan.
Beautifully presented dishes made from local ingredients
- try the buffalo steak with pepper sauce (160,000VND)
and other Hmong-themed delights. Daily 11.30am-10pm.
★

SHOPPING
Sa Pa and the surrounding villages are a great place to pick
up Hmong or Dao embroidered items - from clothing to
bags and more; however, many sellers also peddle mass-
produced Chinese items, so you need to be able to tell the
difference. The lovely but very persistent Red Dao and
Hmong ladies will find you the minute you set foot on
Cau May, and they do have some quality items for sale (if
you don't mind the hard sell). For more sedate browsing,
check out the Indigo Cat shop at 46 Phan Xi Pang, which
sells quality Hmong items. Finally, if you wish to try and
re-create the Red Dao herbal bath (see p.859) at home,
you can buy pre-packed bags of herbs at the market.

Hill Station Signature 37 Phan Si Pan W thehill
station.com/signature-restaurant. This former hill station,
flooded with natural light and boasting unusual decor,
specializes in traditional cuisine from the region, so expect
the likes of sweet potato cooked over hot coals, dried
buffalo meat, fresh spring rolls with raw trout and smoked
pork belly. The only non-local item is Häagen-Dazs ice
cream. Not to be confused with Hill Station on Muong Hoa,
which is a deli. Mains from 75,000VND. Daily 12.30-10pm.