Thailand - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 798

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Much of the park is carpeted in
impenetrable rainforest, home to gaurs,
leopard cats and tigers among others
- and up to 155 species of bird - but it
offers a number of easy trails. he park
has two centres: the tourist village that
has grown up on the access road to the
park headquarters, which offers ATMs
and currency exchange; and the dam,
65km further east, at the head of
Cheow Lan Lake , which has some scenic
rafthouse accommodation. Most visitors
stay in the tourist village and organize
their lake trips from there.

and palms. There's wi-fi and intern et acc ess, plus snorkels,
boogie boards and kayaks. Double B300
Bamboo Bungalows Central Ao Yai T 077 820012,
W bamboo-bungalows.com. Israeli-Thai managed and
very traveller-savvy, with free wi-fi and kayaks, plus
snorkels, surf- and boogie-boards, and currency exchange.
Its en-suite bungalows are set under the trees in a well-
tended flower garden and al l have fans (electricity 24hr
in high season). Double B550
Coconut Beach Resort Ao Yai T 089 920 8145,
W koh-phayam.com. Occupying a great spot in the centre
of the bay and run by a Ko Phayam family, the good-value,
en-suite bungalows here are of a high standard, each set
in its own tiny garden. Kayaks, mot orbike s and mountain
bikes for rent, free snorkels. Double B300
Smile Hut Central Ao Yai T 077 820335, W smilehutthai
.com. At this popular spot, the 35 thatched, split-bamboo
and wooden huts are simple but en suite and are spread
among the shorefront trees, with the s lightly cheaper
versions set one row behind. Double B400
★

10

The trails
Seven of the park's nine attractions
(waterfalls, pools, gorges and viewpoints)
branch off the clearly signed main
trail that runs west of the park
headquarters, along the Sok River (sketch
map available from the park checkpoint).
Most people walk to Ton Kloi waterfall ,
7km from headquarters (allow 3hr each
way), which tumbles into a pool that's
good for swimming.

Starlight Bungalows Northern end of Ao Kao Kwai
T 081 978 5301, W phayambooking.com. Not the
cheapest on Kao Kwai, but very laidback and peaceful at
the best stretch of beach. There is a restaurant with a
fabulous stargazing deck, tasty food and bamboo en -suite
bungalows or more expensive wooden ones. Double B300
Vijit T 077 834082, W kohpayam-vijit.com. This long-
running outfit in a lush garden is very popular, offering
en-suit e, cla pboard bungalows with fans. Free wi-fi.
Double B400

Cheow Lan Lake
With photogenic karst islands and
mist-clad mountains encircling jade-
coloured waters, the vast Cheow Lan Lake
(aka Ratchabrapa Dam ) is Khao Sok's most
famous feature. Tours generally combine a
longtail trip on the lake with a trek
through the nearby flooded cave system
and a night on a floating rafthouse.
For many people, the highlight of the
park is the three-hour hike through
Nam Talu cave . he trek is not for
everyone, however, as the cave section
entails an hour-long wade through the
river and there will be at least one 20m
section where you have to swim. Never
attempt the cave without an authorized
park guide; in October 2007 a flash flood
caused nine fatalities here. Wear sandals
with decent grip and take a torch.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
Khao Sok Track & Trail in the tourist village ( T 081 958
0629, W khaosoktrackandtrail.com) sells bus (including a
VIP bus to Bangkok), boat, plane and train tickets, as well
as tickets for a/c minibuses to destinations that include

EATING AND DRINKING
Several laidback little beach-bars, including Rasta Baby at
the north end of Ao Yai and Hippie Bar at the north end of
Ao Kao Khwai, put on fireshows and occasional parties.
Bamboo Bungalows Central Ao Yai T 077 820012,
W bamboo-bungalows.com. Tasty pasta, schnitzels, sand-
wiches and breakfasts at this beachfront restaurant (Western
dishes around B150), as well as lots of Thai standards,
including seafood priced by weight. Daily 7.45am-10pm.
★

Oscar's Village, just north of the pier-head T 084 842
5070. Breakfasts, including home-baked bread, Thai
standards such as tom yam kung (B90), Indian curries and
lasagne at this sociable open-air bar-restaurant. Also a
good source of information, offering currency exchange
and transport tickets. Daily 7am-late.

KHAO SOK NATIONAL PARK
Whether you're heading down the
Andaman or the Gulf coast, the stunning
jungle-clad limestone crags of Khao Sok
National Park (B200, valid for 24hr) are
well worth veering inland for.