Thailand - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 797

aladdindivesafari.com), who organize
Surin, Similan Islands and Myanmar
live-aboards and PADI courses. he
prettiest (and longest) beach on the island
is Ao Yai , which arches its way along the
mid-west coast.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By boat A daily boat service runs from the islands pier
in Saphan Pla (see p.799) to the pier on Ko Chang's east
coast (1hr; B200; sometimes cancelled in the rainy
season). You should be able to arrange some kind of a
pick-up from the pier through your resort; otherwise it's
a 3km walk to Ao Yai. From about early November to late
April, there are also two daily boat departures to Ko
Chang's west coast, stopping at most resorts, from Saphan
Pla (1hr 30min; B200).

Sunset Bungalows Towards the far north end of Ao Yai
T 084 339 5224. Homely and friendly family-run place
with wooden bungalows and a lovely rustic restaurant
blending into the beach surroundings. There's also a raised
deck with a well- stocke d library (loan only) in English and
German. Double B350

W

10

KO PHAYAM
Diminutive KO PHAYAM , measuring just
5 by 8km, is home to some fine
white-sand beaches and relaxing
beachfront bungalows connected by a
network of winding concrete paths.
Behind the beaches, the island is covered
in rubber, cashew and palm plantations.
Slightly more developed than Ko Chang,
it has electricity evenings only at most
places, a fledgling though still very
low-key bar scene, and a village at the
port comprising several small shops,
restaurants, a clinic, and a dive shop
( T 081 891 5510, W a-one-diving.com;
live-aboards to Surin, Similan and
Myanmar, and PADI courses). Motorbike
rental (from B200) is available in the
village or at the bungalows, many of
which close down during the wet season
(June-Oct).
Ko Phayam's nicest beach is the
3km-long Ao Yai on the southwest coast,
a beautiful sweep of soft white sand that
occasionally gets pounded by large waves.
Across on the northwest coast, the
prettiest stretch of beach is the northern
part of Ao Kao Kwai (also known as Ao
Kao Fai, or Buffalo Horn Bay).

ACCOMMODATION
The dozen or so family-run bungalow operations are
mostly scattered along the west coast, many of them
hidden among the shore-front trees on Ao Yai; they nearly
all close June-Oct. Most of them are simple constructions
with mosquito nets on the beds; you shouldn't necessarily
expect flush toilets (buckets and dippers are provided).
Though the bungalow resorts nearly all have their own
generators (which usually only operate in the evenings),
some stick to candles and para n lamps so it's best to
bring a torch; very few bungalows have fans.
Cashew Resort North end of Ao Yai T 081 485 6002 ,
E [e-mail]. The largest outfit,
Cashew feels like a small village, with its forty en-suite,
sea-view bungalows spread among the cashew trees
along 700m of prime beachfront. The resort offers the
most facilities on the island, including internet and foreign
exchange, and its restaurant bak es bre ad and serves Thai
and a few German dishes. Double B300
★

Crocodile Rock T 081 370 1434, E tonn1970@
yahoo.com. In a shady, elevated position at the start of Ao
Yai's southern headland, with great views of the whole
bay, on which the friendly owners have capitalized, with
attractive decks at the restaurant and picture windows in
some of the bathrooms. Bungalows, some of which have
nice pebbledash bathrooms, have a touch more style than
the Ko Chang average. The restaurant bakes its own bread ,
and serves espresso coffee. Internet access. Double B350
Sawasdee Resort By a stream at the far southern end of
Ao Yai T 084 846 5828, W sawasdeekohchang.com. This
welcoming place has twelve thoughtfully designed, even
stylish wooden bungalows with big decks and good
bathrooms. There's a good, attractive restaurant, serving a
wide variety of Thai dishes and plenty of vegetarian
options, with decks and terraces under the shady trees.
Double B350

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By boat There are two daily slow boats to Ko Phayam
from Saphan Pla (2hr; B200). From November to May,
there are also up to five daily speedboat services (45min;
B350). Motorbike taxis meet incoming boats from
Ranong's port Saphan Pla (see p.799) at the pier in Ko
Phayam village and charge B80 to most bungalows.

ACCOMMODATION
Most bungalows only provide electricity from around 6 to
11pm and the cheapest rooms often don't have a fan.
There is now internet access at many places.
Aow Yai Bungalow Southern end of Ao Yai T 083 389
8688, W aowyai.com. French-Thai resort with more than
twenty good-quality en-suite bungalows of various styles,
dotted around an extensive garden of flowers, fruit trees