Malaysia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 499

KINABALU NATIONAL PARK
here are few sights more impressive in
Borneo than the cloud-encased summit
of Mount Kinabalu . Standing at 4095m,
Kinabalu's jagged peaks look impossibly
daunting from a distance, but the
mountain is a relatively straightforward -
if somewhat exhausting - climb. he
well-defined, 8.7km path weaves up the
mountain's southern side to the bare
granite of the summit, where a
1.6km-deep gully known as Low's Gully
cleaves the peak in two. he view from
the top is awe-inspiring and the blanket
of stars which envelops you until sunrise
(not to mention the altitude) will leave
you breathless. he aching muscles and
creaking joints are well worth the sense of
exhilaration you'll achieve at the top.

still low-key and friendly, the beaches are
largely deserted, but word about this
Shangri-La is beginning to get out, and
since the main road has recently been
paved, it's only a matter of time before
development follows, so the time to go is
now. he closest town to the tip of
Borneo is drowsy Kudat , its main feature
being the colourful Chinese temple near
the main square.

6

Tampat do Aman
On the outskirts of one of the Rungus
villages, this secluded eco-lodge has
become a destination in itself. It's run by
Howard the Brit and his Rungus wife and
there's a wonderfully friendly feel to this
rustic place that's hidden amid lush
greenery, enhanced by a veritable
menagerie of cats, ducks and local wildlife,
such as civets that often appear on the
electricity lines during hours of darkness.
Howard runs transfers to his beachside
café near the tip of Borneo several times a
day, though you can easily walk the 4km
yourself. At the café you can rent bicycles
and motorbikes to explore the
surrounding beaches and Rungus villages.
Howard is an absolute treasure trove of
local information and there's a museum
devoted to Rungus culture on the property
itself. Contact Howard in advance to
arrange pickup from Ria Hotel in Kudat.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
For many, climbing Mount Kinabalu is
the main attraction of a visit to Sabah.
However, for those not so keen on
ascending the 4095m, there are other
trails that you can take in the park
leading through rich lowland forest to
mountain rivers and waterfalls and
bringing ample opportunity for
birdwatching and nature walks. he park
also has its own botanical garden and
Poring Hot Springs - the perfect remedy
for aching muscles, post-ascent. Details
of all the various walks and trails are
available from the park headquarters.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus There are three daily buses from KK to Kudat (3hr
30min-4hr), but it's quicker to take a shared taxi. Shared
taxis depart Kudat for KK (3hr; RM15) whenever they fill
up and it's easier to get a ride in the mornings. To get to
the tip of Borneo, you'll either need your own wheels or
to stay at Tampat Do Aman (see below).

The climb: day one
Climbing to your first night's
accommodation brings you to a height of
around 3350m, and takes from three to
five hours, depending on your fitness.
Take your time, as it'll give you a better
chance to acclimatize to the high altitude.
he trail is marked out with encouraging
signboards every 500m and there are seven
rest shelters with toilets and containers of
untreated (but drinkable) water along the
Timpohon Trail (five along the Mesilau
Trail) spread out at regular intervals up
until Laban Rata, your stop for the night.
It's possible to do the climb in a day, but
you have to be supremely fit to do so and
you have to pass the control point at Laban
Rata by noon to be allowed to proceed.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
In Kudat, there are several inexpensive Indian and Malay
joints around the main square. Near the tip of Borneo, the
Tampan Do Aman beach café is pretty much the only
option for eating.
★

Tampat Do Aman T 013 8808395, W tampatdoaman
.com. Wonderful eco-lodge, consisting of a backpacker
longhouse with tiny individual rooms with mosquito nets,
thatched huts and a chill-out area, set amid lush greenery.
There's electricity and running water in the showers, though
be pre pared to share them with local wildlife. Longhouse
rooms RM40