Malaysia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 500

he trail is a combination of steep
wooden stairs, uneven rock-and-dirt steps
and relatively flat sections in between, so
it's not all relentlessly uphill. Two or three
hours into the climb, incredible views of
the hills, sea and clouds below you start
to unfold and the trail changes from
lowland forest to dense foliage. After
about 5km, the surrounding jungle
becomes sparse and you have to cross
some steep, exposed rocky ground, where
you're most likely to be caught in the
rain. he resthouses are located just after
6km at the foot of Panar Laban, from
where views of the sun setting over the
South China Sea are exquisite.

well-deserved hot breakfast, they'll still be
struggling up to the summit.
On a clear day, you get a splendid view
of the whole valley below, illuminated by
the first rays of the sun, as well as the
lights of Kota Kinabalu along the coast.
On the way down, you'll be able to
appreciate the different peaks that you
scrambled past in the darkness. If you've
chosen to do the via ferrata (see box
below), you have to descend to your
assigned meeting point before beginning
your vertigo-inducing adventure.
After breakfast at Laban Rata, descend
at your leisure.

6

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus A/c express buses from KK to Sandakan (4hr) pass
park headquarters, leaving KK hourly on the hour between
7am and 10am and then at 12.30pm, 2pm and 3pm. There
are return buses going back to KK (usually before 6.30pm),
which can be flagged down outside the park entrance, and
a shuttle bus that heads back to KK at 3.30pm (RM40).
Shared jeeps depart when full from the park gates and cost
RM150 to KK (for up to five people). For Poring Hot Springs
you can take a minivan or taxi for RM55 from park
headquarters, hop on the daily shuttle bus from the park
HQ at noon, or walk out of the main gate and hail any
passing Sandakan-bound bus. They'll drop you off at
Ranau (RM8), from where you can take a minibus (RM10)
to the springs.

The climb: day two
Most climbers get up at 2am the next
morning in order to make it to the top
for sunrise. At 2.30am, the gate to the
trail is opened and hikers join the
procession snaking their way to the top
by the light of their headlamps. his last
section is only 2.7km but can seem
interminable; the first part consists of an
endless climb up steep wooden steps
which then give way to exposed rock with
ropes strung along it to help you haul
yourself up; using your arms will give
your legs a bit of a break. he last section
is a short, steep scramble to the summit
up some large, uneven boulders. If you
make it to the summit just before sunrise,
you'll have the satisfaction of watching a
long line of headlamps making their way
up towards you and knowing that when
you're heading back down towards a

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
It's worth spending a night at the base of Mt Kinabalu, if
only to avoid getting up at an insane hour in KK before
catching a bus or a taxi to the park. Most lodging options in
the park include meals. Staying at the park headquarters
and in Laban Rata is vastly overpriced for what it is, as

THE VIA FERRATA
If the precipitous climb to the summit of Mount Kinabalu is not enough of a challenge, you
may consider taking the road less travelled and sign up for Mountain Torq's via ferrata - the
highest in the world. Consisting of metal rungs, bars, steel cables and suspension bridges
bolted to the sheer rock face, the via ferrata is an adventure playground for adrenalin junkies.
While no prior experience is required, a good level of physical fitness is a must; the enthusiastic
English-speaking guides talk you through everything else. You can take part in two circuits:
Low's Peak Circuit (RM600) or the shorter Walk the Torq (RM440; Low's Peak Circuit
incorporates Walk the Torq). The former requires a fair amount of abseiling or climbing down a
sheer rock face and the views of the valley from up high are second to none; the latter is far
shorter and easier, but still requires traversing a cliff face and wire bridge.
Mountain Torq ( T 088 268126, W mountaintorq.com) now also offer sports climbing
courses that start from RM1640/person for a three-days and two-nights itinerary, with
professional instruction and accommodation at the Pendant Hut.