Malaysia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 459

clustered along the sandy coves along its
western side. Kapas is a designated
marine park; its white-sand beaches are
some of the cleanest in Malaysia, and the
aquamarine waters are ideal for sea
kayaking and snorkelling. he best
snorkelling is around tiny Pulau Raja,
just off Kapas and rocky Pulau Gemia, off
the northwestern shore, home to a resort
and a turtle sanctuary. he northernmost
cove is good for turtle-spotting and
turtles and reef sharks have also been
spotted at the south side of the island at
Turtle Valley resort. Besides snorkelling,
Kapas has a few good diving sites; set on
the main beach, Aqua Sport ( T 019 983
5879, W aquasportdiver.com.my) charge
RM110 for a regular dive and RM150
for a night dive. A couple of jungle trails
cross the island - one from behind
Kapas Island resort and the other
branching off from the trail leading over
the promontory to Turtle Valley resort;
this one is more demanding and there's a
certain amount of hauling yourself up
using ropes; both trails end up pretty
much at the same spot on the east side
of the island.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Accommodation is arranged along four coves along the
west side of the island; all accommodation options have
their own restaurant.

Captain's Longhouse T 012 377 0214. At the southern
end of the main beach, this longhouse has a spacious
dorm with colourful mosquito nets, local fabrics and
clean communal bathrooms. Couples can make use of
the darkish doubles, or opt for a double bed within
the shared dorm (RM60). There's a chill-out area with
hammocks, and nip ah carp ets are strewn over the wooden
floors. Dorm RM30 , double RM70
★

6

Kapas Beach Chalet (KBC) T 019 343 5606,
E [e-mail]. The friendly and laidback
vibe at this Dutch-Malay owned place might tempt you
to stay for longer than planned, whiling away your
afternoons swinging in a hammock and swimming.
The little A-frame chalets with private bath are dotted
around a garden and there's a kitchen for guests' use,
chill- out are as for rai ny day s and a sociable restaurant.
Dorm RM15 , double RM40
★

Koko's This welcoming English-Malay-run beachside
place with coconut beams and rustic wooden furniture
serves outstanding Malay dishes - the fresh fish/prawns/
squid cooked in a yellow coconut sauce (RM20) is an
absolute must. Daily 9am-4pm & 7.30-10.30pm.
Pak Ya Sea View T 019 960 3130. Run by the welcoming,
smiley Zai, who will go out of his way to help you and
make you feel right at home, this place has seven rustic
chalets that line the beach, all with private bath and fan.
A great optio n for those seeking a laidback, quiet time.
Double RM70
Turtle Valley This intimate, slightly more upmarket,
Dutch-owned place is a popular spot for a wonderful
lunch or dinner - the chef rustles up excellent takes on
various cuisines, from Indonesian to Mexican. The
chocolate fondant is also a winner. Dinner reservations
required. Mains RM35. Daily noon-1.30pm & 6-8.30pm.

SAVE THE TURTLES
Marang is one of the remaining places in
Malaysia where you can see turtles.
However, with turtle numbers dwindling,
sanctuaries such as the Ma'Daerah
Turtle Sanctuary ( W madaerah.org) are
becoming increasingly important.
Volunteering here is a truly rewarding and
worthwhile experience, and can be done
for as short a time as a single weekend, or
even an afternoon. In April, the beaches
are cleaned up ready for the nesting
season and any willing hands for this task
are gratefully received. A donation of at
least RM250 is required, but meals and
accommodation are included for your
stay, and your money will be going
towards the work of the sanctuary.
Alternatively, you can adopt a turtle
(RM150), or a nest (RM100).

CHERATING
CHERATING , 47km north of Kuantan,
hugs the northern end of a windswept
bay, protected from the breeze by
the shelter of a rocky cliff. Surfers ,
kitesurfers and windsurfers love
this travellers' hangout while many
others find the village a bit lacklustre.
hese days the town has lost some
of its laidback kampung vibe due
to large resorts popping up all over
the place.
he main drag is a tiny surfaced
road that runs roughly parallel to
the beach; this is where you'll find
most of the restaurants and bars, as
well as convenience stores and arts
and craft shops selling batik, T-shirts