Laos - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 398

By bus Buses from Pakse and elsewhere in Laos, plus
those coming over the Cambodian border, stop at
Nakasang, from where boatmen will ferry you across to
the islands. To move on from Don Det and Don Khon, it's
best to book your bus through your guesthouse or a local
tour operator; the price will include a boat to Nakasang,
and once there, the boatman will direct you to the correct
place to pick up your bus. Though bus departure times are
advertised as 11am, this is usually the time of the boat
pick-ups from the islands. Alternatively, you could hire a
boat to Nakasang yourself and pay for a bus once you're
across, but aim to be there by at least 11am to make
sure you can get on your desired service. Buses run to
Champasak, Pakse, Vientiane and beyond, plus Siem Reap
and other destinations in Cambodia and Thailand.
Destinations

5

TREAT YOURSELF
Seng Ahloune Don Khon, to the right of
the bridge as you cross from Don Det
W sengahloune.com. Ten charming rooms
in wooden bungalows right by the water,
with lovely touches like handcrafted
decorations on the door and windows.
A really peaceful spot from whic h to
watch the Mekong rushing past. $40

★

rooms i n a mode rn block that's surrounded by marigolds.
Double 60,000K
The Last Resort On the west side of the island, around
750m south of Ban Hua Det W facebook.com/lastresort
dondet. This self-styled travellers' community was started by
a former banker from the UK. Thatched wigwams sleeping
two to four people are set around a sociable garden that's
home to a fire pit and an open-air cinema. Orga nic herbs
grown onsite are used in communal meals. Double 60,000K
Santiphab Right next to the railroad bridge. Decent
en-suite bungalows are available at this long-running
place at the northern end of the old French bridge, with
views across t o Don Kh on on the other side of the babbling
river. Double 40,000K
Saeng Chanh At the eastern end of the main road
through town T 020 9738 8727. A little run-down (some
of the raised riverside bungalows have holes in t he floor) ,
but very cheap and handy for the centre. Double 35,000K

Champasak (daily; 2hr 30min); Pakse (daily;
3hr); Savannakhet (daily; 7hr 30min); Thakhek (daily;
10hr); Vientiane (daily; 19hr).

INFORMATION
Banks and exchange There are no banks on either
island but dollars and baht are exchangable at some
guesthouses and tour agencies.
Bike rental Bicycles are for rent at many guesthouses on
each island for 10,000K/day.
Internet On Don Det, there are a number of internet
cafés along the main “road”, at the tip of the island, all
charging 400K/min.
Tours The tour agents on Don Det and Don Khon are all
much of a muchness, and most are run by guesthouses. In
addition to kayaking and boat trips around the islands,
they can all organize and book onward transport to
Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam.

DON KHON
Somphamit Just west of the Sala Done Khong hotel on
the main river road T 020 526 2491. Comfortable riverside
bamboo bungalows equipped with fans and wide, shared
terraces with decent hammocks. A ll rooms are en suite,
and some are a little musty. Double 60,000K
Sunset Paradise Guesthouse The easternmost guest-
house on the main riverside path in Ban Khon. Spacious
and solid, these wooden bungalows face one another
across a peaceful garden, just back from the river. The
helpful staff speak English and French, a nd there's good
food at the waterfront restaurant. Double 100,000K

ACCOMMODATION
DON DET
Bountip's Eastside Guesthouse On the east coast of
the island, south of the Crazy Gecko restaurant T 054
813900. Exceptionally cheap bungalows that just happen
to be located in a very peaceful coconut grove by the
water's edge. It's a bit of a walk from the centre of Ban Hua
Det, however, and you'll ha ve to share a tatty cold-water
bathroom. Double 30,000K
Don Det Bungalows On the east coast of the island,
around 1.2km south of the centre of Ban Hua Det T 020
2300 4959. For something quiet and relatively classy,
try these comfy bungalows, which have swooping Lao-
style rooflines and cocoon-like hammocks. There's a
reasona ble restau rant on the other side of the path.
Double 130,000K
Keo Inpeng Towards the northern end of the island,
off Ban Hua Det's main drag. Hard to spot off the main drag
(look for the small sign on the right as you walk south
from the beach), Keo Inpeng has good-value en-suite

EATING AND DRINKING
Most places on the islands serve a fairly predictable mix of
Lao and Western dishes, and Mekong fish is always on the
menu - though if you want to try mok pa (fish cooked in
coconut milk), you'll generally need to order an hour or so
in advance.

DON DET
Crazy Gecko Sunrise side, south of Don Det Bungalows .
This laidback riverfront restaurant, its terrace strewn with
swinging lanterns and tropical plants, stands out for its