Laos - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 399

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all directions and then plunge out of lush
forests along the Bolaven's edges in a
series of spectacular waterfalls, some more
than 100m high.

INTO CAMBODIA: VEUN KHAM
Although buses run to the border, the
easiest way to get into Cambodia via the
Veun Kham crossing is to take a direct
bus (daily; 5hr; $17-18) that leaves either
from the islands or from Pakse to Stung
Treng (see p.392) - minibuses are usually
your best option, and direct tickets are
also available to Siem Reap and Phnom
Penh. Cambodian and Lao visas are
available on arrival. Immigration o cials
on both sides ask for a $1-2 fee to stamp
your passport, in addition to a visa fee.

Tad Lo
In the past few years the area around
Tad Lo , a 10m-high waterfall on the
banks of the Xe Set, has been attracting
a growing stream of backpackers. he
cheap guesthouses and restaurants in the
village just downstream of the main
waterfall (there are three along this
section of the river) provide everything
visitors need for a few days' relaxation.
In the hot season, the pools surrounding
Tad Hang , the falls closest to the
guesthouses, are a refreshing escape from
the heat. For a long, scenic walk that
takes in all three falls, follow the
well-marked trail that runs around the
back of the Tad Lo Lodge. he tourist
o ce on the road to the falls can hook
you up with a guide for this walk if
you'd prefer not to do it alone. If you do
decide to swim, take care and be sure to
clear the water before darkness, when
the floodgates of a dam upstream
sometimes unleash a torrent of water
without warning.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus The Tad Lo Falls are 88km northeast of Pakse by
bus (about 2hr) and about 30km southwest of Salavan.
The turn-off for Tad Lo is just beyond the village of Lao
Ngam; buses will drop you at the turn-off, from where it's
a 1.5km tuk-tuk ride (10,000K/person) along a dirt road to
Tad Hang. Moving on, ask your guesthouse for a lift back to
the main road (10,000K), where you can pick up a morning
bus to Salavan or Pakse.

varied menu, which dares to deviate from fried rice and
pancakes. Dishes include a lightly spiced pumpkin burger
(20,000K). Daily 7am-9.30pm.
Reggae Bar A short walk south of the beach, at the
northern end of the island. Joints are passed around at
this lazy, sit-down bar, where empty crates of Beerlao prop
up the long and sociable tables. The “hangover breakfast”
here includes fruit, Coke, and - oddly - garlic bread
(35,000K). Daily 8am-11pm.
Rib Shack Ban Hua Det. Friendly streetside place run by
a man from Tennessee, USA, who's been living on the
island for a few years. His pork ribs, which sell for 10,000K
a piece, are great with beer. Daily 6pm-late.

DON KHON
Sunset Paradise Guesthouse The easternmost guest-
house on the main riverside path in Ban Khon. Of the
many riverside terraces facing Don Det, this one (see
p.401) has the most appealing. Bar stools face out over
the water, providing the perfect spot for fresh spring rolls
(20,000K) or an ice cream. Daily 7am-10.30pm.
Seng Ahloune At the guesthouse of the same name (see
box, p.401). As long as you avoid it when the tour groups
descend for lunch, this large, friendly restaurant is a good
choice, offering a predominantly Lao menu, with dishes
such as fish larp (50,000K), served right by the river. Daily
7am-10pm.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
★

Café Em Next door to the tourist o ce on the road to
the falls T 020 5633 4637, E [e-mail]. Wonderful
little outdoor coffee shop using organic, freshly roasted
Arabica beans from the Bolaven Plateau. The breakfast,
with Austrian-style coffee and honey-smothered pancakes
(25,000K), is a great way to start the day. Daily 6am-7pm.
★

THE BOLAVEN PLATEAU AND
TA D LO
High above the hot Mekong River valley
stands the natural citadel of the Bolaven
Plateau - hilly, roughly circular in shape,
and with an average altitude of 600m
- dominating eastern Champasak
province and overlooking the provinces
of Salavan, Xekong and Attapeu to the
east. Rivers flow off the high plateau in

Palamei Guesthouse At the T-junction in the middle
of the village, just east of the tourist o ce T 030 9620192.
The superb-value rooms at this family-run garden guest-
house are very clean and well looked after. Cheaper rooms
share a bathroom, while more expensive ones (60,000K)
have en-suite facilities. If you want the chance to chat with