Laos - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 381

5 TREKKING, RAFTING AND KAYAKING AROUND LUANG NAMTHA

Trekking in the National Biodiversity Conservation Area must be booked through a licensed
agent, or via the tourist o ce (see p.383). Though Luang Namtha has a few cowboys, there
are some excellent outfits (all operating from o ces on the main strip) running reliably
well-organized treks with a strong ethical stance, as well as kayaking, rafting (July-Oct only)
and mountain-biking trips. Not all the trips leave daily, and you'll probably find that your
choice is limited by those that have already been signed up for by other travellers - be sure to
arrange one as soon as you arrive, or better still, book in advance. Note that for all treks and
activities, the price you pay is dependent on the number of people on it, and you should make
sure that if you're visiting a local village, a percentage of the money you pay goes towards
supporting the community.
★

Green Discovery T 086 211484, W green
discoverylaos.com. Undoubtedly one of the best set
up operations in town (and also the priciest), offering
an excellent range of trips and treks, from a two-day
kayaking adventure on the Nam Tha (from $69) to
overnight treks into beautiful Nam Ha NBCA, staying
at hill-tribe villages (from $62).

Jungle Eco-Guide Services T 020 9551 8889,
W thejungle-ecotour-laos.com. The best locally run
outfit, with a network of nine well-maintained trails
through the NBCA. Their tough but rewarding three-
day Jungle Camp Adventure Trek tramps through
wildlife-rich primary forest, with stops for fishing and
swimming en route (from $70).

★

Massage Herbal Sauna and Massage, on the road leading
to Tai Dam (15,000K sauna; 50,000K massage).
Post o ce Main street (daily 8am-noon & 1-4pm).

★

Thavyxai Two streets west of the main road T 030
5110292. In a giant-columned building with airy, high-
ceilinged rooms, Thavyxai both looks and feels grander
than its rates suggest. The terrace at the back is a lovely
place to gaze over the rooftops and soak up the sun. Good
English spoken and excellent value. Double 60,000K
★

ACCOMMODATION
Adounsiri One street west of the main road T 020 299
1898. In a leafy plot, this popular guesthouse has simple
but very pleasant rooms, some of which are off a sweet
communal terrace. Double 60,000K
Manychan Main road T 020 2292 7878. Simple en-suite
rooms in a tall building just behind t he popular restaurant
of the same name. Double 60,000K
Tai Dam 200m east of the main market T 020 2239 0552,
W tai-dam-guesthouse.com. A lovely little place tucked
down a dirt track well off the main drag, with rustic, round-
roofed, wood-and-thatch bungalows overloo king pad dy
fields. Check the website for directions. Double 50,000K

Thoulasith Just off the main street T 086 212166,
W thoulasith-guesthouse.com. Set in a graceful building
facing onto a garden, with large, bright rooms and arguably
the best bathrooms in town. The pick of the r ooms are
upstairs, which face onto a lovely balcony. Double 80,000K
Zuela Opposite the night market T 020 5588 6694,
E [e-mail]. One of the most atmos-
pheric places to stay, with large rooms in two gorgeous
wooden buildings, set b ack from the main drag, and a
lovely restaurant. Double 80,000K

EATING AND DRINKING
A small night market (daily 5-10pm) sets up in the
compound next to the BCEL bank at dusk each evening,
where you can pick up grilled meat and cold Beerlao here
and enjoy it at the tables in the middle.
★

TREAT YOURSELF
Northern Laos's most famous eco-style
resort is the Boat Landing ( T 086 312398,
W theboatlanding.com), situated 6km south
of the centre on the banks of the Nam Tha
River. It's fantastic value at $47 for a
beautiful bungalow overlooking the river,
and treks and kayaking can also be
arranged here. The restaurant serves the
best food in the area, with a wide choice of
northern specialities - the spicy Lao dips
(from 12,000K) and Akha ginger chicken
soup (38,000K) are particularly worth trying.
A tuk-tuk from town is 20,000K for two.

★

Bamboo Lounge Opposite the entrance to Thoulasith .
Attached to the well-regarded Forest Retreat trekking
o ce, this Kiwi-run, eco-themed bar-restaurant is
always the busiest place on the strip, with excellent
wood-fired pizzas (50,000-90,000K), daily specials and
a decent range of booze (Lao daiquiri 15,000K). Daily
6.30am-11.30pm.
★

Manikong Bakery Opposite the night market.
With its cute gingham tablecloths and friendly welcome,
this e cient new bakery-café is a great breakfast choice,
with fresh croissants and mu ns, plus sets from 35,000K.