Laos - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 382

landing for (now locals-only) boats from
Chiang Khong.

5 TREKKING ETIQUETTE

Always trek in groups , as there have
been assaults on Western tourists in rural
areas. If you are approached by armed
men and robbery is clearly their intent,
do NOT resist. Most hill-tribe peoples are
animists . Offerings to the spirits, often
bits of food left in what may seem like
an odd place, should never be touched
or tampered with. The Akha are known
for the elaborate gates they construct at
the entrances to their villages. These
gates have special meaning to the Akha
and should also be left alone. Many hill
folk are willing to be photographed, but
old women, particularly of the Hmong
and Mien tribes, are not always keen, so
ask first. Passing out sweets to village
kids is a sure way to generate mobs of
young beggars.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Opposite the old ferry landing, Houayxai's
main sight is the hilltop Wat Chom Khao
Manilat , with a tall, Shan-style drum tower
and, to the left of the sim , a picturesquely
weathered teakwood building now used as
a classroom for novice monks. A 1km
(signposted) walk south from the temple
are the weather-beaten remains of Fort
Carnot , where you can climb one of the
two watchtowers for a fine view across
to hailand.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By air Houayxai's airport is 9km south of the centre, with
daily flights with Lao Airlines and twice-weekly services
with Lao Skyway to Vientiane (55min). Chances are you'll
need to charter a sawngthaew to town (50,000K).
By bus Houayxai currently has two bus stations, around
1km apart. Domestic VIP and international buses,
including services from Chiang Rai, arrive at the swish new
private bus (Phetarloun) station, 6km south of the centre.
At the time of writing, normal buses were still arriving at
the old (Keo Champa) bus station, 5km south of the centre.
Sawngthaews from either bus station cost 10,000K/person
to the centre of town. You can buy tickets for onward travel
through tour agencies in Houayxai; these cost a bit more
than buying direct from the bus station as a transfer is
included. Note that most buses to Houayxai are marked
“Bokeo” or “Borkeo”.

The ham, egg and cheese bagel (25,000K) will set you up
for the day. Daily 6.30am-10pm.
Minority Just off the main road. Run by a Tai Dam family
who collect traditional recipes from different tribes in the
region, including the Khamu and Akha. Some dishes are
better than others, but all are interesting and worth a try.
Rattan shoot and banana-flower soup 25,000K. Daily
7am-10.30pm.
Two Sisters Local bus station. This sweet place, decorated
with birds' nests, antlers and local basketry, is a good lunch
stop, especially if you're hanging around for a bus. The beef
noodle soup (10,000K) is lovely, and there's a good variety
of other dishes including larp (40,000K). Daily 8am-11pm.

INTO THAILAND
With the opening in 2013 of the grand
Fourth Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge
(daily 6am-10pm), 11km south of
Houayxai's ferry landing, foreigners are no
longer permitted to use the river crossing
to Chiang Khong. The easiest way to cross
the border is to take a sawngthaew to the
new bus station and pick up one of the
direct VIP services to Chiang Rai (57,000K),
via Chiang Khong (8000K), which leave at
8am, 9am, 4pm and 5pm. Alternatively,
take a sawngthaew to the bridge
(20,000K), from which (after Lao
immigration) buses shuttle across (7000K)
to Thai immigration (visas are available on
arrival), then a tuk-tuk to Chiang Khong
(B150-200). There are banks and an
information point at the bridge.

HOUAYXAI
he town of HOUAYXAI , situated on a
hilly stretch of the Mekong River, has
long been a favourite crossing point for
people moving between Laos and
hailand. Travellers arriving in Houayxai
can cruise down the Mekong by boat to
Luang Prabang (see box, p.386), or take
a bus overland up Route 3 to Luang
Namtha and beyond. Despite its
border-town status, Houayxai is not
completely devoid of charm, though
the main reason to pause here is to take
part in the acclaimed Gibbon Experience
(see box, p.387).
Most accommodation and travel
services are clustered around the old ferry