Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
west bank to avoid a cliff hugging the opposite side of the stream. Pass through a large
meadow and ford the stream back to the east bank. From this point the trail remains on the
east side of the valley for several hours.
Camp sites are numerous here. Soon you'll pass herders' tents near the spot where the
side valley coming from the Gampa-la joins the main valley. Descend the finger of land
formed by the river junction and then cross the
stream
(4460m; N 29°31.603ʹ, E
091°32.980ʹ). Unless an impromptu wooden bridge has been erected by the herders, dur-
ing heavy summer rain you might have to wait for the water to subside in order to cross
safely.
TREKKING TIBETAN STYLE
Given the chance, many Tibetans would rather ride or drive than go on foot, but there are
also great trekkers among them. The ubiquitous shepherds traipse around on a daily
basis searching out pasture for their sheep and goats. Typically they set out early in the
morning and cover up to 40km before returning to camp in the evening with their herds.
Then there are the pilgrims who visit temples, monasteries and holy mountains on foot.
Pilgrimages can last two or three years and stretch from one end of the vast Tibetan plat-
eau to the other. The greatest Tibetan trekkers though are the 'swift foot', mystic athletes
reputed to move many leagues in a single day. Imagine leaving London in the morning
and arriving in Edinburgh in the evening without ever taking your feet off the ground! It is
said that years of special physical training and esoteric initiation are required to accom-
plish the amazing feats of the swift foot.
While few trekkers visiting Tibet are likely to attain swift foot status, there is still much
to be gained by emulating the native people. When walking long distances they breathe
slowly and deeply, filling their lungs completely. Tibetan walkers inhale and exhale exclus-
ively through the nose, conditioning the cold, dry air before it reaches the lungs. Like the
proverbial turtle they tread slowly and steadily, avoiding excess rest stops. Being im-
mersed in prayer is also traditionally thought to aid trekkers. At the very least it helps
keep the mind off the minor discomforts that inevitably come from moving a long time
under one's own steam. For a bit of a challenge try imitating the rolling gait of Tibetans,
but be forewarned: you may need to spend a few years on horseback before perfecting
this technique!
Stages 4 & 5: Herders' Camps to Samye Monastery
10 hours / 39km / 1200m descent
