Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Glorious Copper Mountain is Guru Rinpoche's Pureland, and has been described as
a mountain on an island in the cosmic ocean. The island forms a mandala, which is repres-
ented architecturally by the Lamaling complex walls: the temple, with its golden-eaved pa-
goda structure rising from a square base (itself coloured differently on each side), is the
mountain in the centre. Statues of Guru Rinpoche are matched with Chenresig and
Öpagme to symbolise his birth legend in which Öpagme imagined a being of perfect en-
lightenment and compassion, and Chenresig sent a golden
vajra
into a lotus bud to give
birth to the guru.
The original Lamaling Temple burned down in the 1930s and a new structure was built
on the flat below. In the 1960s this too was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. In
1989 work began on the current temple under the supervision of the daughter of Dudjom
Rinpoche (1904-87), former head of the Nyingma order, who had his seat at Lamaling.
The monastery is currently home to around 40 monks, 30 nuns and a number of ornery
goats (be careful, they buck).
Take your shoes off before entering the temple - the floor is polished wood. On the
ground floor next to the Guru Rinpoche statue look for a stone footprint of the guru on the
altar. A passageway behind the altar leads to a mezzanine level with four protector chapels
in each corner. Also note the giant coloured prayer beads festooned on the outer walls.
The complex's other main building, to the right, is the assembly hall, where religious
services are held on the 10th, 15th and 25th days of each lunar month. The hall is domin-
ated by a huge statue of Sakyamuni and more images of Dudjom Rinpoche wearing his
characteristic sunglasses. Pilgrims circumambulate both this building and the main temple.
Lamaling is about 30km south of Bāyī.
Buchu Monastery
BUDDHIST, MONASTERY
( )
This small Gelugpa monastery (Bùjiǔ Sì) dates from the 7th century, when it was built at
the command of King Songtsen Gampo as one of the demoness-subduing temples; it pins
the demoness' right elbow. Inside are a number of holy relics including a footprint of Guru
Rinpoche and a
lado
(a 'life supporting' stone) in a glass case.
The monastery is recognisable by its striking golden roof. The entrance to the main
chapel is flanked by murals of several protector gods, including the Kongpo local deity
