Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Bönri (Běnrì Shénshān) is the Bön religion's most sacred mountain, a sprawling massif
where Bön founder Tonpa Shenrab fought and defeated his arch-rival Khyabpa Lagring.
Bönpo pilgrims come from all over Tibet to circumambulate the mountain in an anticlock-
wise direction. Foreign travellers are currently not permitted to do the kora.
The full 60km kora starts and finishes in Nyingtri, 18km west of Bāyī, and takes two or
three days, climbing to the 4500m Bönri-la on the second day. It passes many sites connec-
ted to Tonpa Shenrab, as well as an ancient burial tumulus, a 9th-century stele and a
cemetery for babies.
It's now possible to complete the main part of the kora in around seven hours, thanks to
a new road built around the back of the mountain. It's a tough trek because of the steep-
ness of the climb, not to mention the altitude, but it's incredibly rewarding to follow pil-
grims over such sacred ground and among such fabulous scenery. The forested mountain-
side eventually opens onto grasslands at the top where nomads graze their yaks. Azalea
bushes also cover parts of the top of the mountain and in season splash the landscape with
pink and violet.
The seven-hour section of the kora starts in the village of
Miru
(Mǐruì), where you can
also find a local hiking guide, but it's just as easy to follow the pilgrims. In any case, pray-
er flags line pretty much the whole route.
The path will take you up and over Bönri-la until you eventually meet the main
Sìchuān-Tibet Hwy (Hwy 318) where your driver can pick you up. Don't be persuaded by
your guide or driver to either start from the highway, or to trek up and down the same side
of the mountain. Doing this may be quicker, and more convenient for your driver of
course, but will result in you walking part of the kora in a clockwise instead of anti-clock-
wise direction which will be considered highly disrespectful by the Bönpo pilgrims.
Lamaling Temple
BUDDHIST, TEMPLE
( )
The centrepiece of a large walled complex, the colourful Lamaling Temple (Lǎmaníng Sì)
is a rare example of the Zangtok Pelri style of building. This style, which imitates the
'Glorious Copper Mountain Paradise' of Guru Rinpoche with a three-storey pagoda-like
temple, is unique to the Nyingma order. As with all such temples, the ground floor has a
statue of Guru Rinpoche, the second Chenresig (Avalokiteshvara), while the top chapel is
for Öpagme (Amitabha).
