Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
LATIN QUARTER LITERARY ADDRESSES
Like its Left Bank neighbours, the Latin Quarter is steeped in literary history.
way at 71 rue du Cardinal Lemoine: Irish writer James Joyce (1882-1941) lived in the
courtyard flat at the back marked 'E' when he arrived in Paris in 1921; he finished edit-
ing Ulysseshere.
Cardinal Lemoine is the apartment where Ernest Hemingway (1899-1961) lived with
his first wife, Hadley, from January 1922 until August 1923. Just below was Bal au
Printemps, a popular bal musette(dancing club) that served as the model for the one
where Jake Barnes meets Brett Ashley in Hemingway's The Sun Also Rises.
top-floor garret of a hotel (round the corner from his apartment) at 39 rue Descartes,
the very hotel where the poet Paul Verlaine (1844-96) died. Ignore the incorrect
plaque.
Pla
Place de la C
e de la Contrescarpe Rue Descartes runs south into place de la Contrescarpe
(Place Monge), now a well-scrubbed square with four Judas trees and a fountain, but
once a 'cesspool' (said Hemingway), especially Café des Amateurs at 2-4 place de la
Contrescarpe, now
Café Delmas
.
Orwell (1903-50) stayed in a cheap boarding house above 6 rue du Pot de Fer while
working as a dishwasher. Read about it and the street, which he called 'rue du Coq
d'Or' (Street of the Golden Rooster), in Down and Out in Paris and London(1933).
EATING
From chandelier-lit palaces loaded with history to cheap-eat student haunts,
the 5e
arrondissement
has something to suit every budget and culinary taste.
Rue Mouffetard is famed for its food market and food shops, though you'll
have to trek down some less touristy side streets for the neighbourhood's
best meals.
CRÊPERIE
LE POT O'LAIT
