Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
9e; lunch menu €17, 2-/3-course dinner menus €26/33;
noon-2pm & 7-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 7-10.30pm
Sat; Pigalle)
The chalkboard menus at this contemporary bistro are framed and hung on the walls, and
thankfully the promise of gastronomic art does not disappoint. Old bistro standards have
been swept away in favour of more imaginative creations (fondant of red cabbage topped
with quail confit) and - here's where the Garde Temps scores big points - the dinner prices
aren't much more than that ho-hum cafe down the street.
NEOBISTRO
BUVETTE GASTROTHÈQUE
small plates €5-10; 8.30am-midnight Tue-Sun; ; Pigalle)
Parisians love anything that has to do with New York, and that includes French restaurants
that hail from the West Village. But don't roll your eyes yet - owner Jody Williams has man-
aged to combine the best of both worlds. There's nonstop service from breakfast (yes, break-
fast!) to midnight, and a focus on flavour-filled small plates, meaning plenty of different
dishes to sample.
Think coq au vin, braised oxtails, roast bone marrow, honey-hazelnut
financiers
(tea
cakes) and a good selection of veggie dishes, still something of a rarity in France. Tempting
wine and cocktail list, but no reservations.
TRADITIONAL FRENCH
CHEZ TOINETTE
01 42 54 44 36; 20 rue Germain Pilon, 18e; mains €19-24;
7-11.30pm
Mon-Sat; Abbesses)
The atmosphere of this convivial restaurant is rivalled only by its fine cuisine (seared duck
with honey, venison with foie gras). In the heart of one of the capital's most touristy neigh-
bourhoods, Chez Toinette has kept alive the tradition of old Montmartre with its simplicity
and culinary expertise. An excellent choice for a traditional French meal.
MODERN FRENCH
CUL DE POULE
dinner €24/29; noon-2.30pm & 8-11pm Mon-Sat; Pigalle)
With plastic, orange cafeteria seats outside, you probably wouldn't wander into the Cul de
Poule by accident. But the light-hearted spirit (yes, there is a mounted chicken's derrière on
the wall) is deceiving; this is one of the most affordable quality kitchens in the Pigalle
