Jaffna & the North - Sri Lanka - page 634

Punkudutivu
A long, delightful causeway links Velanai to the island of Punkudutivu. Notice the lagoon
fishermen who use wade-out traps and sail little wind-powered canoes. Punkudutivu vil-
lage , the scene of minor riots in December 2005, has one of Jaffna's most screechingly
colourful Hindu temples, while many old houses lie in various stages of decay. Smaller
causeways link Punkudutivu to the ferry port at Kurikadduwan (KKD) for Navy-run
boats to Neduntivu and Nainativu.
Nainativu (Nagadipa)
Known as Nainativu in Tamil and Nagadipa in Sinhalese, this 6km-long lozenge of
palmyra groves is holy to both Buddhist and Hindu pilgrims.
Right in front of you as you step off the jetty is the Naga Pooshani Amman Kovil (
MAP GOOGLE MAP ) complex, an airy Hindu temple set amid mature neem trees. The main
temple deity is the naga goddess Meenakshi, a consort of Shiva. (The term naga refers
variously to serpent deity figures and to the ancient inhabitants of the island.) Women
wishing to conceive come here seeking blessings, delivered during the trance-inducing
midday puja . An impressive festival is held in June or July every year.
Walk 10 minutes south along the coast road to find the Nagadipa temple, the North's
only major Buddhist pilgrimage site. According to legend, the Buddha came to the island
to prevent war between a naga king and his nephew over ownership of a gem-studded
throne. The solution: give it to the temple instead. The precious chair and original temple
disappeared long ago, but today there is an attractive silver-painted dagoba. Just behind,
three happy-looking Buddhas sit in a domed temple.
Poya (full-moon) days are observed by both Hindus and Buddhists on the island; expect
crowds. Navy-run ferries (Rs 50, 20 minutes) depart KKD on Punkudutivu island for
Nainativu every 15 minutes or so from 6.30am to 5.30pm.