Jaffna & the North - Sri Lanka - page 633

Kayts and Karaitivu island to the mainland. The second option is an excursion to remote,
idyllic Neduntivu (Delft).
The LTTE was once active on these waters, and the Sri Lankan Navy presence contin-
ues to be strong; in fact, the Navy itself conducts most ferry services.
The islands' beaches may not be quite as beautiful as those on the South coast, but they
do offer pleasant swimming in balmy water. Women should swim in T-shirts and shorts.
Bus connections to the islands are not that frequent, for details see Click here . The ideal
way to explore these islands is on two wheels, giving you the freedom to pull over when
and where you want. The terrain is very flat so it's perfect for cycling or covering by scoot-
er; both can be loaded onto ferries between islands.
Velanai
Velanai island, connected by a causeway to Jaffna is sometimes referred to as Leiden, its
Dutch name, or Kayts, after the village on its northeast coast. A beautiful but sparsely pop-
ulated place, it has a deserted feel thanks to the war, and many structures remain in ruins.
If you approach Velanai from Jaffna, you'll pass a turnoff for the half-built Sabins
Blue Ocean Resort ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; [e-mail] ;r US$15) , which has a
slightly forgotten air (don't expect much in the way of service) and a few basic rooms, but
a lovely beachside location.
A few clicks further on, Chaatty Beach is no white-sand wonder, but it's passable for
swimming and has changing rooms, picnic gazebos and snack vendors. It's just 11km from
Jaffna.
If you approach Velanai from Karainagar, the ferry will drop you at the eerie, tumble-
weed settlement of Kayts between a dozen scuttled fishing boats. This lonely place had far
more bustle in centuries past as this was the port from where elephants were shipped to In-
dia. Kayts today is tiny but has some noteworthy colonial buildings, including three
churches near the jetty. Walk straight up Sunuvil Rd and take your first right to get to the
Portuguese St James' ; if you turn left instead you'll hit St Joseph's ; and if you continue
up Sunuvil Rd, you'll see St Mary's on the left. Just beyond St Mary's, the first asphalt
lane to the right leads 600m to a placid waterfront cemetery with views of offshore Fort
Hammenhiel (now a luxury hotel). At the island's northwest is Karampan , where Navy-
operated ferries depart for Analaitivu and Eluvaitivu.